Hamilton Grange (Harlem): 141st Street and Hamilton Terr

It's been over 3 long years since The Grange, Alexander Hamilton's home that was named after his grandfather's homestead in Scotland, was moved to its current location in St. Nicholas Park (which was once part of Hamilton's farmlands) and restoration efforts began.  Today (Constitution Day) marks its re-opening to the public, and there was a great schedule of events from noon to 5pm (tomorrow, there are more special activities and speakers so if you can, check it out).

They allowed self-guided tours through the lower and main levels of the house (upstairs are going to be closed to the public as administrative offices).  The lower level was set up with a small gift shop and interactive displays.  The displays provided descriptions of Hamilton's lowly birth on the Caribbean island of Nevis, his abandonment by his father and death of his mother (all by the age of 14), his rise in early American politics, and his lasting accomplishments, including among other things, establishing the Bank of New York, being the first Secretary of the Treasury under George Washington (he's one of the few non-Presidents on our currency, being on the $10 bill), and creating the system of import customs. For the re-opening celebration, they had actors dressed as Alexander and Elizabeth Hamilton (see left) talking with visitors and answering questions about their lives and interests.

The special celebration today also included Caribbean music on a temporary main stage on the grounds, speakers from the 1st Rhode Island (period actors who played African American soldiers who fought during the American Revolution), period dressed musicians (see right) playing colonial era music, a period dressed blacksmith and apprentice doing iron work, and a hand weaver spinning yarn from wool (see below left).

Of course those who know me won't be surprised to find out that one of my favorite demonstration was that of chocolate making.  They had a display of cocoa fruit to chocolate nib grounds preparations and provided tastings of hot chocolate that were phenomenal.

The home furnishings and decorative items were well appointed and the guides (both dressed in period clothing or National Parks rangers) explained which pieces were original and which were reproductions.  They took deserved pride in the beautiful original silver centerpiece (see right) on the dining table that was used to reflect candle light during dinners.  One of the guides also explained that a treasured silver wine cooler (a reproduction is on the sideboard) was a gift from George Washington after the scandal of Hamilton and his mistress broke in the news.  What I found most amazing was that through the 2 moves of the house, they were able to preserve the original moldings of the arched entry from the foyer (it is less "perfect" than the other ceiling moldings around the home but is seems the most true).

There isn't a huge display of original period furnishings and interiors (there are others that are better in the City like the Morris-Jumel Mansion, Gracie Mansion, and Teddy Roosevelt's birthplace), but in sum, the house is well-situated and worth a visit (besides, admission is free).  It is great to see the house finally restored and moved to its final location (there are 2 chambers on the main floor dedicated to explaining the move and restoration process), but if there is another historical/commemorative event there, I would highly recommend visiting during such an event.  My favorite was a demonstration of Revolutionary War military training that they had for children (see above left and below); it was evident to all that both the historian and the children were having a great time.

Grand Central (Park Ave btwn 45th and 42nd)

I've always known that Grand Central Terminal is a beautiful Beaux Arts building, but as a recovering commuter who once had a 3+ hour daily commute riding 30 year old Metro North trains to Connecticut, I was hardly in a frame of mind or mood to appreciate the architecture or the history until recently.  As part of my exploration of NYC, however, I thought I could hardly dismiss the building that attracts the second largest number of visitors in the City (700,000/day, 200,000 of which are tourists) so I took the self-directed audio tour (available in the main concourse as well as for download at http://www.myorpheo.com/ for the same price $5; HINT: if you get the download you can keep the recording permanently and get 4 downloads).

The tour starts in the main hall, describing the Vanderbilt's adopted family symbol of the acorn and oak leaves that can be found throughout Grand Central in places like on the top of the central clock (see photo at right), in every light fixture, and engraved in walls. The Vanderbilts built this entire terminal and the railroad back in 1913 and it seems they wanted to put their stamp on everything so everyone would know it.
 
The Vanderbilts did not have a family crest, but liked the idea of how a mighty spreading oak tree grows from a humble acorn.  See the photo at left of the acorns and oak leaves that adorn the corners of each ticket window in bronze.

The tour also describes the original east staircase (see photo at right) and the later added west staircase (at the time the building was constructed, 1903-1913, the architects probably did not think there was anything worth going out to on the east side; back then, east of Grand Central was the location of factories, breweries and the occasional herd of goats) both modeled after the grand staircase in the Paris Opera House.  The tour also describes the 60 foot "walls of glass" that actually sandwich walkways connecting the various buildings surrounding Grand Central Terminal (see right), and how these windows had been used to not only bring in light, but also served as the sole ventilation system before air conditioning was added.

The details about the solid nickel chandeliers covered in gold plating (which were originally thought to be bronze because of the grime of decades until the restoration in the 1990s) that hang around the main concourse are not really my style, but they are over-the-top (see photo at left).  Each chandelier weighs 2,500 lbs, spans 11 feet in diameter and includes 144 lightbulbs, which was quite fancy for the times (when most homes did not have electricity).

A surprising factoid: the New York Central railway was the first entity (lobbying Congress unsuccessfully but ultimately prevailing by adopted usage) to implement Eastern Standard Time.  It is commemorated by the clock etched into the marble entry into the main concourse from Graybar Passageway (see photo at right).  I had no idea that standardizing time zones originated in NYC.

The whispering arches of the Guastavino tile vaulting just outside the famous Oyster Bar Restaurant, which is as old as Grand Central (see photo at left), are really interesting.  As a vegetarian, I was not lured but I hear this upscale eatery is worth a visit. 

I could go on and on, but really, if you have the time, you should take the tour to fully appreciate the history, restoration, and majesty of Grand Central.

I do want to share three of my favorite finds of Grand Central Terminal: 

The first is The Campbell Apartment, which was once the residence of John Campbell.  It has been restored to how it looked as a residence with painted wooden beams, stained glass windows, marble floors and a working fireplace; but it now operates as a bar (as you exit Grand Central from the top of the east staircase, turn left and again left up the stairs).  They have a gynormous house drink (I forget the name, but it packs a punch and is delicious).

The second is what I consider the best shoe and handbag repair shop, Leather Spa, in the City (if not the country).  The highest end shoe shops and designers send their customers and products to them for fantastic leather and fabric dying work (I sent my Manolo Blahnik wedding shoes here to dye them to a more practical black after my wedding).  Their main shop is on 55th Street, but you can drop off and pick up conveniently here at the lower level food court area of Grand Central.  This could be a real time saver, for all those Metro North commuters.

The third is the fantastic chandelier sculpture called Sirshasana (1998) by Donald Lipski hanging from the ceiling of the entryway of the Grand Central Market (on the Lexington Street side, see photo at right).  It is an absolutely spectacular art piece shaped like an upside down golden olive tree (symbolizing freedom and purity) with 5,000 crystal pendants in lieu of olives.  When the sunlight hits the crystals, it is breathtaking.

I have a new respect and admiration for Grand Central Terminal, and if you have the chance to take the audio tour, I highly recommend you do it.