NY Historical Society: 77th St and Central Park West

Side Entrance with Statue of Frederick Douglass

Just a block or so south of the American Museum of Natural History is the New York Historical Society, with its own wonderful collection of paintings, home furnishings, memorabilia, and historical artifacts. It has been closed for renovation for the past year or so, but was re-opened last week.

I had never been there before today, and was pleasantly surprised by what I found.  I had mistakenly assumed this would have men's club style (like the Explorers Club), but it was wide open, bright, and exhibited amazing collections in traditional museum style, a kind of salon style, as well as a warehouse style (see Tiffany lamps displayed/stored at left).  To get more out of the visit, I downloaded the free audio guide from iTunes (which was helpful and enriching if a little cumbersome without an order or accompanying map), but if you are less technologically inclined there are free daily guided hour-long tours (check for times on level one at admission).

The museum has an extensive painting collection that rotates and has some great recognizable portraits of George Washington, Alexander Hamilton, miniatures on ivory of New York society women, and Hudson River scenes that highlight NYC's natural beauty.

There are also one-of-a-kind historical artifacts like George Washington's cot from the Revolutionary War (believed to have been the one he slept in at Valley Forge) and the ceramic jug which was a gift to Thomas Nast (whose cartoons in Harper's Weekly blasted and brought into public light the corruption of Tammany Hall) decorated with a depiction of snake-bodied William S. "Boss" Tweed (with beard and without glasses) and his corrupt political gang, some diving in headfirst into the "pot of money and power" (see right). 

There are also rare historic pieces like the fancy Engish-made Beekman family coach from 1766 (one of only 3 that survive from the period), the one-of-two ladies' dressing tables built in New York of this design in the Federal style after the American Revolution,  and the slavery chains (see the tragically child-sized shackles at left).

Perhaps because of my earlier visits to Hamilton Grange and the Morris-Jumel Mansion, I thought the highlight of all of the artifacts were the dueling pistols used by Aaron Burr and Alexander Hamilton (see right) when Alexander Hamilton was killed.

My favorite part of the museum was the 18 minute multimedia film that relates the story of New York City and its rise to prominence from what was once considered a far-away colonial outpost.  From the dredging of the Erie Canal through the American Revolution and the influx of immigrants and the political and economic upheavals centered around New York, the film weaves an amazingly coherent story.  Obviously it is a summary, but it relates history in a meaningful and elegant way without being overly dramatic (yes, they cover recent events like 9/11 poignantly but without belaboring the details; I understand the society is also collecting artifacts from "Occupy Wall Street" in case it becomes a historical phenomenon or movement).  I would recommend this film to all NYC residents and visitors--really, that is how good it is. 

If you haven't been to the New York Historical Society, run, don't walk, to spend an afternoon there.  ASIDE: If you have kids, set aside some time to visit the lower level children's history museum, which has lots of educational and interactive exhibits.

Hamilton Grange (Harlem): 141st Street and Hamilton Terr

It's been over 3 long years since The Grange, Alexander Hamilton's home that was named after his grandfather's homestead in Scotland, was moved to its current location in St. Nicholas Park (which was once part of Hamilton's farmlands) and restoration efforts began.  Today (Constitution Day) marks its re-opening to the public, and there was a great schedule of events from noon to 5pm (tomorrow, there are more special activities and speakers so if you can, check it out).

They allowed self-guided tours through the lower and main levels of the house (upstairs are going to be closed to the public as administrative offices).  The lower level was set up with a small gift shop and interactive displays.  The displays provided descriptions of Hamilton's lowly birth on the Caribbean island of Nevis, his abandonment by his father and death of his mother (all by the age of 14), his rise in early American politics, and his lasting accomplishments, including among other things, establishing the Bank of New York, being the first Secretary of the Treasury under George Washington (he's one of the few non-Presidents on our currency, being on the $10 bill), and creating the system of import customs. For the re-opening celebration, they had actors dressed as Alexander and Elizabeth Hamilton (see left) talking with visitors and answering questions about their lives and interests.

The special celebration today also included Caribbean music on a temporary main stage on the grounds, speakers from the 1st Rhode Island (period actors who played African American soldiers who fought during the American Revolution), period dressed musicians (see right) playing colonial era music, a period dressed blacksmith and apprentice doing iron work, and a hand weaver spinning yarn from wool (see below left).

Of course those who know me won't be surprised to find out that one of my favorite demonstration was that of chocolate making.  They had a display of cocoa fruit to chocolate nib grounds preparations and provided tastings of hot chocolate that were phenomenal.

The home furnishings and decorative items were well appointed and the guides (both dressed in period clothing or National Parks rangers) explained which pieces were original and which were reproductions.  They took deserved pride in the beautiful original silver centerpiece (see right) on the dining table that was used to reflect candle light during dinners.  One of the guides also explained that a treasured silver wine cooler (a reproduction is on the sideboard) was a gift from George Washington after the scandal of Hamilton and his mistress broke in the news.  What I found most amazing was that through the 2 moves of the house, they were able to preserve the original moldings of the arched entry from the foyer (it is less "perfect" than the other ceiling moldings around the home but is seems the most true).

There isn't a huge display of original period furnishings and interiors (there are others that are better in the City like the Morris-Jumel Mansion, Gracie Mansion, and Teddy Roosevelt's birthplace), but in sum, the house is well-situated and worth a visit (besides, admission is free).  It is great to see the house finally restored and moved to its final location (there are 2 chambers on the main floor dedicated to explaining the move and restoration process), but if there is another historical/commemorative event there, I would highly recommend visiting during such an event.  My favorite was a demonstration of Revolutionary War military training that they had for children (see above left and below); it was evident to all that both the historian and the children were having a great time.

Van Courtlandt House: Broadway and 246th St

The Van Courtlandt House Museum is the oldest house in the Bronx.  This Revolutionary War landmark is the first historic house museum in NYC, and it is a National Historic Landmark with a place on the National Register of Historic Places.  Built by grandson, Frederick, of immigrant Oloff Stevense Van Courtlandt (the then fourth richest man in New Amsterdam (now NYC)) in 1748, the Van Courtlandt House is a beautiful English style home surrounded by park lands.

The house served as a base for both English and Revolutionary soldiers during the Revolutionary War.  Both British General Sir William Howe as well as General George Washington is known to have slept there (see photo at right of one of the bedrooms appointed as it would have been during the Revolution).

The museum collection includes period furnishings like those shown throughout the house, antique clothing (see left), and family heirlooms like the children's toys (see below right).  The interior of the house is designed in a way that reminded the builder of his Dutch heritage, and the paint schemes and designs have been preserved thoughtfully by the work of The National Society of Colonial Dames in the State of New York.

It is a small house, just a 2 minute walk from the last stop on the #1 subway.  On a hot day (like the one I went on), it is probably a good 10 degrees cooler here than in midtown Manhattan--thank goodness, since the house is not air conditioned, though surprisingly cool.  It is definitely worth a look, especially if it is on a Wednesday (when all visits are free, usually $5/adults and $3 for seniors and students).  You can get a virtual tour (but nothing is quite as good as seeing it in person) and events information at Van Courtlandt House Info, but if you want hours and admission information, oddly you'll have to check out a different site at Van Courtlandt Visitor Info.  Enjoy!

 

Morris-Jumel Mansion (1 of 2): 162nd St and St. Nicholas Ave

The Morris-Jumel mansion was built in 1765 (the oldest remaining house in Manhattan), by British Colonel Roger Morris and his wealthy American wife, Mary Philipse (whom it is rumored captured George Washington's interest when he was 24), as their summer home.  Known originally as Mount Morris, this northern Manhattan estate stretched from the Harlem to the Hudson Rivers and covered more than 130 acres. Loyal to the British crown (Mary was one of only three women accused of treason to the revolutionary cause during the American Revolutionary War), the Morrises eventually returned to England after the American victory.

During the war, the mansion's location on the second highest point in what is now Manhattan provided indispensable views of the Harlem River, the Bronx, and Long Island Sound to the east, New York City and the harbor to the south, and the Hudson River and Jersey Palisades to the west, and proved to be a strategic military headquarters for George Washington (see photo at left for view of his recreated bedroom/office and notice the pillow and bundle on the floor that was for Washington's constant attendant and servant, William Lee) and then the British (and Hessian mercenaries).

President Washington and his family returned to the Mansion on July 10, 1790, and dined (in the room shown at right) with members of his new cabinet. Guests at the table included future Presidents John Adams and Thomas Jefferson as well as founding fathers Alexander Hamilton (later killed by another resident of the mansion--Aaron Burr) and Henry Knox. It was thought that President John Quincy Adams was also present at this dinner, but recent research has proven otherwise.

The next notable residents of the mansion was Stephen Jumel and his wife Eliza.  Eliza was quite a character, and the telling of her life brings a bit of the Harlequin romance or soap opera to the house.  It is known that she and her family were evicted from Providence, RI for running a house of ill-repute.  In other words, it is believed that she was a prostitute.  When they moved to NYC, Eliza strategically decided to become an actress (considered tawdry and low class work back then) so that she would be thrown in the path of rich men.  All worked in her favor when she met Stephen Jumel and convinced him to marry her  and make her "an honest woman" when he thought she was on her death bed.  "Miraculously" she made a full recovery and they married.  She tried to convince NYC society that she came from a noble French family and demanded to be called Madame Jumel, but NYC wasn't buying it.  Although they enjoyed her grand parties, few really befriended her.  Even her claimed bedroom set from Napoleon Bonaparte (perhaps purchased at auction although Eliza claimed they were gifts from Napoleon himself) did not really impress NYC high society (see photo at left of Eliza's bed which was thought to have been a gift from Napoleon to Josephine).

After Stephen's death, Eliza ran his business and was surprisingly success (quite a feat when women of the day had little in economic rights).  She was so successful that she attracted the attention of Aaron Burr, then former Vice President and well-known ladies man (but perhaps most famous for having killed Alexander Hamilton in a pistol duel).   

Aaron Burr had run up a great deal of gambling debt and decided at age 77 he could make all of his financial troubles disappear with this union (see Aaron Burr's bedroom in above right photo).  For her part, Eliza thought she would certainly rise in social status by marrying a former Vice President.  They were married in the front parlor of the house (pictured above) and had a reception in the beautiful octagonal room at the east end of the house (pictured at right).  

Unfortunately, it quickly became clear to Eliza that Mr. Burr was squandering her money so within a year she filed for divorce (scandalous at the time).  Amazingly, on the morning when the divorce was to become finalized, Mr. Burr had a freak accident and stepped on a pitch fork and died.  So rather than being a divorcee, for her later Grand Tour of Europe with her grandchildren when Eliza was 80 (see photo of painting at above left), she was introduced in the French court as the widow of the former Vice President. What an amazing survivor she was!  All toll, she lived in the mansion for 55 years, passing here after suffering in the end of dementia, at the age of 90.

For more information on the mansion, its history, architecture or residents, please visit Morris Jumel Mansion.  There are also educational workshops, children's programs and other interesting things that are also definitely worth a look.  I really enjoyed the historical fiction writing workshop I attended (and about which I will write next).

Fraunces Tavern Museum: Pearl and Broad Street

Long Room, where General George Washington Bid Farewell to his Officers at War's End

Back in the late 90s I worked just across the street from Fraunces Tavern.  I ordered dinner late at night from there often, but I am embarrassed to say that I never knew there was such a remarkable museum there.  I braved sleeting rain today to visit the museum, and was rewarded with an amazing step back in time on a self-guided tour.

The museum admission is $10 for adults $5 for seniors and students (for more detailed information on New York colonial history, current events, museum hours of operation, etcetera, please see http://www.frauncestavernmuseum.org/).  While the museum doesn't have all the bells and whistles of larger museums like the Natural History Museum or guided tours of federally funded historic sites like the Teddy Roosevelt birthplace (please see my prior post), the not for profit Sons of the Revolution have done an amazing job restoring this historic site and amassing a very respectable sizable collection of period furnishings, paintings, and artifacts.  See photos at left and below right of an early 1800s pistol and revolutionary period rifle, bullets, and trumpet.  

There is a very informative 15 minute video that tells the history of the site, first as the stately home of Oliver de Lancey, then as a tavern owned and operated by Samuel Fraunces (who also served George Washington as a spy and later as a member of Washington's house staff) -- when the site attracted all manner of business and revolutionary activity, and later as the site where the first Secretary of Foreign Affairs, Secretary of Treasury and Secretary of War operated.  It also relates the history and development of colonial New York and how Fraunces Tavern served a critical role at so many significant times.

It was at Fraunces Tavern that the Sons of Liberty met to plan before the American Revolution, where New York's first Governor George Clinton celebrated the British evacuation of New York, and where on December 4, 1783 in the Long Room (see first photo and photo at left) General George Washington met with all of his officers to say farewell after winning the war.

Thanks to the incredible foresight of the Sons of the Revolution, who in the late 1800s purchased the building and restored it to the way it was when George Washington often met at Fraunces Tavern, and the continuing work of the organization to collect period artifacts, this little museum is a real gem and definitely worth a visit for those interested in American history.

Federal Hall: Wall Street & Nassau Street

Federal Hall Entrance with Statue of George Washington

Located just across the street from the New York Stock Exchange, Federal Hall is a historic site that should not be missed by history buffs.  While the original building was demolished and the building that currently stands there (built in 1842) is not filled with as many artifacts from the early years of this nation's history as one would hope, the free 30 minute tour is definitely worth a look (tours are offered on the hour by national park rangers; see http://www.nps.gov/feha/planyourvisit/hours.htm for details on times).  The grand Greek revival architecture of the building was intentionally designed to suggest the great power of the new nation, with its Greek columns from single slabs of all domestic marble (excluding the capitals which are from Carrera Italy) (see left) and its 55' in diameter rotunda (see right).  The wrought iron balcony and the well-worn marble floors are also quite luxurious.

This was the site where (1) George Washington was inaugurated as the first President of the United States (see photo of original wrought iron balcony where George Washington took his oath at left and photo of George Washington's shoe buckle at right -- unfortunately the original bible on which he took is oath is currently out on loan), (2) where the Bill of Rights was drafted (originally 12, 10 were initially adopted), (3) where Congress passed the Judiciary Act that established the coexistence of state and federal courts and laws, and (4) later where the purchase of what later became the state of Alaska was executed. 

Between these historic moments, this was the site where over time: New York City Hall operated, the U.S. Customs House brought in moneys from trade to fund the operations of the young nation, and one of the U.S. Sub-Treasuries protected the wealth of the nation in gold and silver (vaults remain on the main level and the basement level, see right) -- gun turrets once lined the roof to protect the funds kept here!

There is also a room dedicated to the life story of Alexander Hamilton (first Secretary of Treasury of the United States), from birth to an unwed mother who died when he was 11, a father who abandoned them in the Caribbean island of Nevis when he was 10, to the death of his oldest son Philip in a duel defending his father's honor, and finally to the death of Alexander Hamilton himself in a duel with Aaron Burr, who was attempting to pull apart the nascent nation into independent states.  This small glimpse certainly made me more keen about the re-opening of the Hamilton Grange (Alexander Hamilton's home) later this summer at 414 W. 141st Street.  

As I mentioned above, there aren't a lot of artifacts here, but there is a lot of history to appreciate.  If you are in the area, I would recommend a visit in conjunction with any visit to St. Paul's Chapel and Trinity Church (both of which are just a few blocks away, please see my prior blog post on both sites).

Trinity Church & St. Paul's Chapel: On Broadway btwn Wall St and Fulton

Trinity Church and St. Paul's Chapel (see left and right) make up Trinity Wall Street Episcopal parish.  Both churches are filled with and surrounded by history from the beginning of this nation through the tragedy of 9/11, and is an active parish today.

Trinity Church, which first opened in 1698 but burned in the "Great Fire" of 1776, was rebuilt in 1790 but had to be torn down due to heavy snow damage in 1839, and finally was rebuilt in 1846 for a third time to what you see today.  St. Paul's Chapel was first built in 1766 as a northern expansion of Trinity Church and is the longest continually used public building in the U.S. 

Trinity Church has beautiful bronze doors (see above left and right).  While the church is not the largest or the grandest in New York (see my posts on St. Patrick's Cathedral and St. John the Divine), it also has a spectacular stained glass window behind the main altar (see left) and a perfectly appointed altar in the All Saints' Chapel (see right).  It also has a museum, but when I visited yesterday it was out of commission due to some technical difficulties, but the security guard I spoke to said that is should be back up and running in a couple of weeks so check the website (http://www.trinitywallstreet.org) for details.  

However, some of the most historically significant parts of Trinity Church are actually outside in the cemetery.  In the south yard, there is a memorial for Robert Fulton (developer of the first commercially successful steamboat), the tomb of Alexander Hamilton (the first Secretary of Treasury and the man on the $10 bill) (see left), and in the north yard there lies the oldest gravestone (5 year old Richard Churcher) dated 1681 (see above right).

St. Paul's Chapel is just a few blocks north of Trinity Church, but many New Yorkers do not know much about St. Paul's.  It was the site where for the 9 months following 9/11 rescue workers took refuge, volunteers came from all over the country and the world to help relieve the devastation, and where people of all faiths bonded and helped one another after the devastation.  The interior of the chapel has been changed into a kind of museum with modern displays describing all of these things (which kind of diminishes the beauty of this historical site), but if you take the time to read and really look at the various displays, I assure you that you will be moved.  I certainly was.  The chapel also retains some incredible historical pieces as well -- George Washington came to worship after his inauguration as the first President and over that pew hangs an original 18th century painting of the Great Seal of the United States (see right); and George Clinton, the first NY State governor worshiped here back in the late 1770s and there is also a marked Governor's Pew.

Finally, if you go through the back doors, you will be face to face with the "Bell of Hope," a gift from the City of London to the City of New York, that is rung every September 11th.  And poignantly just beyond the bell, you will be facing west toward the "pit" where the twin towers once stood, and you can oversee the construction that is going on today at a feverish 24/7 pace.

While you could try to time your visit for the Trinity free tour at 2 pm or when the museum re-opens, I would simply recommend that you pick up the handy brochures offered at the front entrance of both Trinity and St. Paul's.  They are very informative, have detailed maps of highlights and provide a good overview of the history of both sites.

City Hall (Broadway and Murray Street in City Hall Park)

I took a really interesting tour of our New York City Hall, which is one of the oldest continuously used city halls in the country, today.  Tours are by appointment only and for individuals, they are available only on Thursdays by calling 311 or 212-NEW YORK (outside NYC). 

The building, which is currently undergoing a $106 million renovation, was originally constructed from 1803 to 1812 in the Federal style with strong French influences.  The architect team that won the building design competition, winning a whopping $350, was French emigre Joseph Francois Mangin and native New Yorker John McComb Jr. (who also designed much of the interior).  The building is really quite elegant and a fantastic example of neo-classical design (see right).  It was interesting to me (as a recovering lawyer) that the statue of Lady Justice at the top of the building is not blindfolded (as she typically is to signify equal justice for all without bias under the law).  As it was a blustery cold day, we moved the tour into the building early and heard about how the original design of the building was altered to lower the projected construction costs (which had come in way over budget).  It is pretty amazing to think of it today, but the architects were asked to eliminate all the marble from the design of the building facade and they compromised by eliminating all the marble from the back of the building since nothing was north of City Hall in the early 1800s except woodlands and farmland!

The interior of the building is quite beautiful (at least the limited parts we were able to see).  The west wing is where the mayor holds meetings (and as our group of 9 were standing in the lobby listening to our guide tell us about the statue of George Washington, Mayor Bloomberg and his staff came into the building and passed right by us) and is off limits for the tour, and the City Council Hall is currently off limits due to the renovations.  What I found really breathtaking was the formal keystone-cantilevered (freestanding) staircase and the "secret" cupola with a central skylight that you can't see from the outside of the building; the top of the cupola is flush with the third floor of the building and does not actually rise above the roof like most cupolas.

We did get a chance to go up the staircase, the top of which was where Abraham Lincoln was brought for viewing after his assassination.  Then we entered the Governor's Room, where there was an amazing collection of portrait paintings by John Trumbull and historical furniture pieces, including the original desk that George Washington used when he led the Continental Congress.  The adjacent room, which was once used as a courtroom, also had beautiful portrait paintings, one of which was of Commodore Stephen Decatur (one of the early, successful pirate fighters--where are they now?) by Thomas Sully (this is the painter who painted the famous portrait of Andrew Jackson which you are all probably aware of since it is on the $20 bill).  This last find was particularly exciting for me, as a dear friend of mine is a relation of this painter and I was able to share this discovery with my friend.  Pretty cool, huh?

All in all, I got much more than I expected from this tour, and as I left, I was faced with City politics in action.  There was a large demonstration against Walmart being allowed to enter NYC on the steps of City Hall (see right).  Folks were chanting "FOR EVERY 2, 3 WERE LOST."  I imagine they were talking about job losses when Walmart enters a market.  I very much felt like City Hall was full of history, but it is alive and active as well.  It is an interesting mix of the past and the present, one worth checking out.