Showing posts with label history. Show all posts
Showing posts with label history. Show all posts

Friday, March 11, 2011

Theodore Roosevelt Birthplace: 20th St & Broadway

I'm sure I've walked past this unassuming brownstone (see left) innumerable times without ever realizing that this was the birthplace of Teddy Roosevelt, our 26th President.  The house was given as a gift from his grandfather Cornelius (who made a fortune importing plate and stained glass and was ranked among the top 5 wealthiest men in New York in his day) to his parents upon their marriage.  Teddy and his three siblings: Elliott (father of Eleanore Roosevelt who married her father's 5th cousin Franklin Delano Roosevelt (FDR)), Anna, and Corinne were born in this house, and the family lived here until 1873 when they moved to West 57th Street, which was considered a more residential "country" home. 


Where visitors enter the house now for tours (which are free and given on the hour) is the lower level that was once reserved for servants with the kitchen and other working rooms.  The first floor up was where family visitors would have entered.  On this level, there is a formal parlor that was Teddy's favorite room; it had the most natural light and the furnishings were very fine.  The national park ranger who gave us our tour told us a quaint anecdote about how Teddy loved the chandelier in this room (see right) and when one day he found that a crystal had fallen from the chandelier he pocketed it and played with it for over a week until guilt overcame him and he confessed to his mother. 

Throughout this floor, which has the parlor the dining room and the library, and the 3rd floor, which has the master bedroom and the nursery, you can see furniture and decorative objects from the original home.  In fact about 75% of the furnishings are original, and the remainder are period pieces (like the piano which is the same type owned by the Roosevelts, although not the original from the home and the china donated to the Theodore Roosevelt Association by Eleanore Roosevelt--although there is one piece of the family's original rose china on display (see left)). 

It was like walking back in time to see Teddy's infant crib, his childhood chair, the family dining room set (another gift from his grandfather to his parents), and his parents' original bed in their master bedroom (see right).  The park ranger tour guide also had great stories about Teddy's hobby of taxidermy and his father's attempts to cure Teddy of his asthma by blowing cigar smoke into his face and giving him black coffee as a child. 

If you are interested in American history, this tour is right up your alley.  It is just hard to believe that this exists just a few blocks north of Union Square.  Later this year the next door neighbor's house (which belonged to Teddy's uncle--yes, another gift from Grandfather Cornelius) is scheduled to re-open later this year as a museum after the electrical is upgraded and the exhibits are re-installed.

Wednesday, February 9, 2011

Grand Central (Park Ave btwn 45th and 42nd)

I've always known that Grand Central Terminal is a beautiful Beaux Arts building, but as a recovering commuter who once had a 3+ hour daily commute riding 30 year old Metro North trains to Connecticut, I was hardly in a frame of mind or mood to appreciate the architecture or the history until recently.  As part of my exploration of NYC, however, I thought I could hardly dismiss the building that attracts the second largest number of visitors in the City (700,000/day, 200,000 of which are tourists) so I took the self-directed audio tour (available in the main concourse as well as for download at http://www.myorpheo.com/ for the same price $5; HINT: if you get the download you can keep the recording permanently and get 4 downloads).

The tour starts in the main hall, describing the Vanderbilt's adopted family symbol of the acorn and oak leaves that can be found throughout Grand Central in places like on the top of the central clock (see photo at right), in every light fixture, and engraved in walls. The Vanderbilts built this entire terminal and the railroad back in 1913 and it seems they wanted to put their stamp on everything so everyone would know it.
 
The Vanderbilts did not have a family crest, but liked the idea of how a mighty spreading oak tree grows from a humble acorn.  See the photo at left of the acorns and oak leaves that adorn the corners of each ticket window in bronze.

The tour also describes the original east staircase (see photo at right) and the later added west staircase (at the time the building was constructed, 1903-1913, the architects probably did not think there was anything worth going out to on the east side; back then, east of Grand Central was the location of factories, breweries and the occasional herd of goats) both modeled after the grand staircase in the Paris Opera House.  The tour also describes the 60 foot "walls of glass" that actually sandwich walkways connecting the various buildings surrounding Grand Central Terminal (see right), and how these windows had been used to not only bring in light, but also served as the sole ventilation system before air conditioning was added.

The details about the solid nickel chandeliers covered in gold plating (which were originally thought to be bronze because of the grime of decades until the restoration in the 1990s) that hang around the main concourse are not really my style, but they are over-the-top (see photo at left).  Each chandelier weighs 2,500 lbs, spans 11 feet in diameter and includes 144 lightbulbs, which was quite fancy for the times (when most homes did not have electricity).

A surprising factoid: the New York Central railway was the first entity (lobbying Congress unsuccessfully but ultimately prevailing by adopted usage) to implement Eastern Standard Time.  It is commemorated by the clock etched into the marble entry into the main concourse from Graybar Passageway (see photo at right).  I had no idea that standardizing time zones originated in NYC.

The whispering arches of the Guastavino tile vaulting just outside the famous Oyster Bar Restaurant, which is as old as Grand Central (see photo at left), are really interesting.  As a vegetarian, I was not lured but I hear this upscale eatery is worth a visit. 

I could go on and on, but really, if you have the time, you should take the tour to fully appreciate the history, restoration, and majesty of Grand Central.

I do want to share three of my favorite finds of Grand Central Terminal: 

The first is The Campbell Apartment, which was once the residence of John Campbell.  It has been restored to how it looked as a residence with painted wooden beams, stained glass windows, marble floors and a working fireplace; but it now operates as a bar (as you exit Grand Central from the top of the east staircase, turn left and again left up the stairs).  They have a gynormous house drink (I forget the name, but it packs a punch and is delicious).

The second is what I consider the best shoe and handbag repair shop, Leather Spa, in the City (if not the country).  The highest end shoe shops and designers send their customers and products to them for fantastic leather and fabric dying work (I sent my Manolo Blahnik wedding shoes here to dye them to a more practical black after my wedding).  Their main shop is on 55th Street, but you can drop off and pick up conveniently here at the lower level food court area of Grand Central.  This could be a real time saver, for all those Metro North commuters.

The third is the fantastic chandelier sculpture called Sirshasana (1998) by Donald Lipski hanging from the ceiling of the entryway of the Grand Central Market (on the Lexington Street side, see photo at right).  It is an absolutely spectacular art piece shaped like an upside down golden olive tree (symbolizing freedom and purity) with 5,000 crystal pendants in lieu of olives.  When the sunlight hits the crystals, it is breathtaking.

I have a new respect and admiration for Grand Central Terminal, and if you have the chance to take the audio tour, I highly recommend you do it.