Hamilton Grange (Harlem): 141st Street and Hamilton Terr

It's been over 3 long years since The Grange, Alexander Hamilton's home that was named after his grandfather's homestead in Scotland, was moved to its current location in St. Nicholas Park (which was once part of Hamilton's farmlands) and restoration efforts began.  Today (Constitution Day) marks its re-opening to the public, and there was a great schedule of events from noon to 5pm (tomorrow, there are more special activities and speakers so if you can, check it out).

They allowed self-guided tours through the lower and main levels of the house (upstairs are going to be closed to the public as administrative offices).  The lower level was set up with a small gift shop and interactive displays.  The displays provided descriptions of Hamilton's lowly birth on the Caribbean island of Nevis, his abandonment by his father and death of his mother (all by the age of 14), his rise in early American politics, and his lasting accomplishments, including among other things, establishing the Bank of New York, being the first Secretary of the Treasury under George Washington (he's one of the few non-Presidents on our currency, being on the $10 bill), and creating the system of import customs. For the re-opening celebration, they had actors dressed as Alexander and Elizabeth Hamilton (see left) talking with visitors and answering questions about their lives and interests.

The special celebration today also included Caribbean music on a temporary main stage on the grounds, speakers from the 1st Rhode Island (period actors who played African American soldiers who fought during the American Revolution), period dressed musicians (see right) playing colonial era music, a period dressed blacksmith and apprentice doing iron work, and a hand weaver spinning yarn from wool (see below left).

Of course those who know me won't be surprised to find out that one of my favorite demonstration was that of chocolate making.  They had a display of cocoa fruit to chocolate nib grounds preparations and provided tastings of hot chocolate that were phenomenal.

The home furnishings and decorative items were well appointed and the guides (both dressed in period clothing or National Parks rangers) explained which pieces were original and which were reproductions.  They took deserved pride in the beautiful original silver centerpiece (see right) on the dining table that was used to reflect candle light during dinners.  One of the guides also explained that a treasured silver wine cooler (a reproduction is on the sideboard) was a gift from George Washington after the scandal of Hamilton and his mistress broke in the news.  What I found most amazing was that through the 2 moves of the house, they were able to preserve the original moldings of the arched entry from the foyer (it is less "perfect" than the other ceiling moldings around the home but is seems the most true).

There isn't a huge display of original period furnishings and interiors (there are others that are better in the City like the Morris-Jumel Mansion, Gracie Mansion, and Teddy Roosevelt's birthplace), but in sum, the house is well-situated and worth a visit (besides, admission is free).  It is great to see the house finally restored and moved to its final location (there are 2 chambers on the main floor dedicated to explaining the move and restoration process), but if there is another historical/commemorative event there, I would highly recommend visiting during such an event.  My favorite was a demonstration of Revolutionary War military training that they had for children (see above left and below); it was evident to all that both the historian and the children were having a great time.

Bartow Pell Mansion (Bronx): Pelham Bay Park

The Bartow-Pell Mansion is a beautifully-situated Greek Revival historic home from the 1840s (part of the Historic House Trust of New York City), but it is ridiculously difficult to get to by public transport!  If you don't have a car (consider a Zip Car if you don't own one) take a pass on this NYC tourist site.  If you try public transportation like I did, you are likely to face a lot of waiting/standing (there are no benches) and about a 2 hour plus trip in each direction (coming from midtown Manhattan).  The #6 subway that goes out to Pelham Bay Park are fewer and farther between than one would imagine if you live and work in the City (only about half of the #6 trains go out to the stop).  Then the #45 Bronx Beeline Bus only comes around once an hour, and there is no attempt to even come close to being on schedule.  Finally, the guided tours (only available on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays--and first Fridays with an additional "trolley"/bus ride) of the mansion are not coordinated with the bus schedule at all, and even if you are the only one at the mansion, you are going to be made to wait until the designated tour times (a quarter past the hour).

Ok, so that is it for the venting.  The English style gardens are reminiscent of the beautiful sets in BBC productions of Jane Austin movies.  There are perfectly manicured portions around a central goldfish pond (see recently renovated back garden at right) as well as a wilder area beyond the wrought iron gates.  I spent some time wandering and then parked myself at a table and chairs to read a book until I was beckoned for the next tour.

The interior was refurbished to be period appropriate to the mid-1800s (see the beautiful original spiral staircase at left that is a great setting for wedding photos--the home can be rented out for weddings, teas, and other special events) but it appears that most of the furnishings and artwork are on loan from the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Museum of the City of New York, the Brooklyn Museum of Art, etc.

As the tour guide informed us, this house is furnished with whatever the curator can beg, borrow, and steal.  Not all of the pieces are the best examples of period furnishings, but at least there aren't any empty shelves and walls.  The curator has taken great care to appropriately decorate and furnish the home.  There are a few original pieces to the home but the majority are "temporary" installations (although the lesser paintings and furniture are likely to remain, as they are not the quality usually exhibited at institutions like the Metropolitan).

The best part of the visit was provided by the tour guide.  Our guide was well informed, put the home and its various inhabitants in context, and shared great anecdotes.  I learned about the reason for ceiling medallions (to catch the smoke and ash from the lit candles of old chandeliers in order to delay the need for the routine repainting of ceilings) (see right).  I also learned about the origins of well known but perplexing sayings like "the rule of thumb;" the width of a thumb is the thickness of the rod with which a husband could legally whip his wife (wives were considered chattel at the time--although, as this home was built with the inherited wealth from the Lorillard Tobacco Company (one of the oldest companies still in operation in the U.S. and the makers of Newport cigarettes), Robert Bartow is believed to have treated his wife, Maria Lorillard as an equal).

The guide also explained the origins of "watch your beeswax."  He explained the need for the fire screens that were used to protect people from overheating when seated close to the numerous fireplaces (see left) that were used to heat the home, and he told us about how common it was for people of the 19th century to suffer from facial scars from small pox and chicken pox illnesses.  He noted that men of the day could grow beards but women were only able to cover their scars with beeswax-based makeup.  When ladies sat too close to a fireplace, their face could actually melt and a kindly comment to such a lady might be "mind your beeswax" so that she could know to excuse herself and re-apply another coating.  Ha!

Finally, I also learned about how because water had to be brought in and heated by hand, families in the 19th century (before the time of indoor plumbing) shared bathwater.  The order of use started with the master of the house, followed by the mistress, and then the children by age order.  If you can imagine, in homes with many children (the Bartows had 7) that would make the water quite brown by the time the baby could be bathed.  From that phenomenon came the warning, "don't throw the baby out with the bathwater."  Yikes.

Although I had hoped that more of the home's furnishings were original, I could appreciate the care that was taken to display the home to its best advantage.  The 14' ceilings on the main floor are highlighted with vertically placed artwork and the freestanding staircase, and the 13' ceilings on the second floor showcase a special 19th century canopy bed (the only Charles Honore Lannuier bed known to still exist in its original condition was donated to the Bartow Pell Mansion Museum by the descendants of the original owners Mr. and Mrs. Isaac Bell of New York) (see right).  Each room is well appointed to demonstrate the way the inhabitants would have used the home.  There was no indoor plumbing, central heating, or large wardrobes so there are wash basins, chamber pots, pot bellied stoves and fire places, bed warmers, and a notable lack of closets.

I learned a lot the day I spent visiting the Bartow Pell Mansion, but I don't think I will be going back there any time soon without a better means of getting there. Fair warning to all who might visit this historic home.

Hudson River Museum (Yonkers): Warburton Ave

This is a true gem in NYC.  Yes, it is a little remote (you have to take the Hudson Line Metro North to Glenwood Station and then walk about 5 to 10 minutes), but it is absolutely worth the trip (besides, Metro North offers a special if you ask the ticket agent for a "One Day Getaway" to the Hudson River Museum, which includes the roundtrip train fare and discounted museum admission for $14.50/adult).

The Hudson River Museum has something for everyone.  That is not an exaggeration.  They have historical home furnishings from the late 1800s (see period library with fireplace and ebonized bookshelves at left) in the architectural beauty, Glenview (see above, the house behind the modern facade of the museum, which was built and lived in by the John Bond Trevor family), which was built by the same architect that built the Armory on Park Avenue.  

They have modern exhibitions, like the photography work currently on display of the Hudson Valley, from Manhattan and Westchester County to the Catskills by Susan Wides.  This exhibit explores the juxtaposition of suburban and urban perspectives and the descriptions of the works in the artists own words are fantastically informative.

The museum also has a respectable collection of 19th and early 20th century scenic paintings of the Hudson Valley as well as some beautiful portraits and sculptures done in the times before mass photography.  I particularly like the intimacy and innocence of this lovely child's portrait, likely painted by her father, John George Brown (see right).

They also have modern or more contemporary artwork.  My favorite piece in the whole museum is Red Groom's "The Bookstore" (see left).  This 3D installation of an animated bookstore, complete with inflatable figures, uniquely titled 3D books, an electrified fireplace, and 2 entrances (a grand one mimicking The Pierpont Morgan Library and a modest one of a second hand bookstore, called Mendoza's Bookstore), is hyper-life-like in color and specificity  As I walked through and tried to take in all of the details, I was reminded of theater/movie sets (particularly Hagrid's hut from the Harry Potter series).  I LOVED this piece and don't think I've seen anything like it before.

The museum also has a great nature exhibit for kids (and adult-kids) called Riverama.  In it, they have live catfish, carp, seahorses (see right), and almost innumerable interactive stations educating visitors about the marshes, trees, wildlife, soil and pollution related to the Hudson River and New York City.  I think it really is fabulous (although I suppose I can't be sure about how this would be received by kids since I did not have any visiting with me).

Finally, the highlight of the museum is the planetarium.  Because it is only open on weekends I was worried it would be incredibly crowded, but actually, the whole museum was pretty sparsely attended (there were about a dozen people there at any given time during my 3 hour visit).  They have different shows 3 times each day, and it is really zen and beautiful.  The show is narrated by a live host with a very soothing voice and the background music is cosmic (ah yes, I admit I snuck a little cat nap in there -- I couldn't help it).  While I haven't yet been to the planetarium at the American Museum of Natural History (still on the list), I would say that this planetarium is wonderful, expansive, and somehow intimate too.

If you have not trekked out to the Hudson River Museum, you are missing out.  This is a fantastic place to visit and spend the day (and evenings when they have special planetarium shows or musical concerts--check their calendar of events).  You can't beat views like this (see above).  I would add this to my top 5 list of places to visit in NYC, especially for New Yorkers yearning for a hit of nature and something off the beaten path.

Museum of the City of NY: 103rd and Fifth Ave

With all the hoopla surrounding the major museums in NYC (the MOMA, the Met, the Natural History, etc.), the smaller, more niche museums are often overlooked.  Did you even know there was a Museum of the City of New York?  I really didn't know what to expect (their website does not provide a great overview, but it does provide basics like hours and admission fees--Museum of the City of NY Info), but with about an hour, I got a good look into this rich museum.

About a third of the museum is closed for renovation, but what is open to the public, while a little disjointed (varying from a temporary photography exhibit called "Moveable Feast: Fresh Produce and the NYC Green Cart Program" to a time-line wall mural about "How the Apollo Theater Shaped American Entertainment"), is really worth a visit.


The museum also has vintage metal toys (see left), a wonderful collection of period furniture showcased in alcoves with distinct styles (including several Duncan Phyfe pieces) as part of its permanent exhibit of New York Interiors from 1690-1906, and the incredibly detailed Stettheimer Dollhouse with real miniature paintings like the Marcel Duchamp of "Nude Descending a Staircase" (see below left), and an interesting exhibit of memorabilia and NYC photographs from consummate NYC Tony Award winning performer Joel Grey.

However, I think one of the best highlights of this museum is the 23 minute film in the Timescapes viewing room about the history of New York City.  It weaves stories of immigrants, the development of communities like the Lower East Side, the Upper East Side, the Upper West Side, and Wall Street.

It also explains the effects of public transportation and the policies of Fiorella LaGuardia and Robert Moses that created commercial areas completely separate from suburban commuter communities and what that did to the City when the economy faltered.  Whole areas of New York City became a kind of urban wasteland and it was only when grass roots initiatives for revitalizing the City coupled with increased investment in infrastructure and safety in the 1970s turned the tides around.  By the year 2000 New York City was again the fastest growing city in the country.  If you have an interest in history, a visit to this museum is a must.

Finally, I should mention that if you have a wedding or formal event to plan, you may want to consider the Museum of the City of New York.  With its grand staircase and marble foyer, it could be just the location to make your next event extra special.