NY Historical Society: 77th St and Central Park West

Side Entrance with Statue of Frederick Douglass

Just a block or so south of the American Museum of Natural History is the New York Historical Society, with its own wonderful collection of paintings, home furnishings, memorabilia, and historical artifacts. It has been closed for renovation for the past year or so, but was re-opened last week.

I had never been there before today, and was pleasantly surprised by what I found.  I had mistakenly assumed this would have men's club style (like the Explorers Club), but it was wide open, bright, and exhibited amazing collections in traditional museum style, a kind of salon style, as well as a warehouse style (see Tiffany lamps displayed/stored at left).  To get more out of the visit, I downloaded the free audio guide from iTunes (which was helpful and enriching if a little cumbersome without an order or accompanying map), but if you are less technologically inclined there are free daily guided hour-long tours (check for times on level one at admission).

The museum has an extensive painting collection that rotates and has some great recognizable portraits of George Washington, Alexander Hamilton, miniatures on ivory of New York society women, and Hudson River scenes that highlight NYC's natural beauty.

There are also one-of-a-kind historical artifacts like George Washington's cot from the Revolutionary War (believed to have been the one he slept in at Valley Forge) and the ceramic jug which was a gift to Thomas Nast (whose cartoons in Harper's Weekly blasted and brought into public light the corruption of Tammany Hall) decorated with a depiction of snake-bodied William S. "Boss" Tweed (with beard and without glasses) and his corrupt political gang, some diving in headfirst into the "pot of money and power" (see right). 

There are also rare historic pieces like the fancy Engish-made Beekman family coach from 1766 (one of only 3 that survive from the period), the one-of-two ladies' dressing tables built in New York of this design in the Federal style after the American Revolution,  and the slavery chains (see the tragically child-sized shackles at left).

Perhaps because of my earlier visits to Hamilton Grange and the Morris-Jumel Mansion, I thought the highlight of all of the artifacts were the dueling pistols used by Aaron Burr and Alexander Hamilton (see right) when Alexander Hamilton was killed.

My favorite part of the museum was the 18 minute multimedia film that relates the story of New York City and its rise to prominence from what was once considered a far-away colonial outpost.  From the dredging of the Erie Canal through the American Revolution and the influx of immigrants and the political and economic upheavals centered around New York, the film weaves an amazingly coherent story.  Obviously it is a summary, but it relates history in a meaningful and elegant way without being overly dramatic (yes, they cover recent events like 9/11 poignantly but without belaboring the details; I understand the society is also collecting artifacts from "Occupy Wall Street" in case it becomes a historical phenomenon or movement).  I would recommend this film to all NYC residents and visitors--really, that is how good it is. 

If you haven't been to the New York Historical Society, run, don't walk, to spend an afternoon there.  ASIDE: If you have kids, set aside some time to visit the lower level children's history museum, which has lots of educational and interactive exhibits.

Hamilton Grange (Harlem): 141st Street and Hamilton Terr

It's been over 3 long years since The Grange, Alexander Hamilton's home that was named after his grandfather's homestead in Scotland, was moved to its current location in St. Nicholas Park (which was once part of Hamilton's farmlands) and restoration efforts began.  Today (Constitution Day) marks its re-opening to the public, and there was a great schedule of events from noon to 5pm (tomorrow, there are more special activities and speakers so if you can, check it out).

They allowed self-guided tours through the lower and main levels of the house (upstairs are going to be closed to the public as administrative offices).  The lower level was set up with a small gift shop and interactive displays.  The displays provided descriptions of Hamilton's lowly birth on the Caribbean island of Nevis, his abandonment by his father and death of his mother (all by the age of 14), his rise in early American politics, and his lasting accomplishments, including among other things, establishing the Bank of New York, being the first Secretary of the Treasury under George Washington (he's one of the few non-Presidents on our currency, being on the $10 bill), and creating the system of import customs. For the re-opening celebration, they had actors dressed as Alexander and Elizabeth Hamilton (see left) talking with visitors and answering questions about their lives and interests.

The special celebration today also included Caribbean music on a temporary main stage on the grounds, speakers from the 1st Rhode Island (period actors who played African American soldiers who fought during the American Revolution), period dressed musicians (see right) playing colonial era music, a period dressed blacksmith and apprentice doing iron work, and a hand weaver spinning yarn from wool (see below left).

Of course those who know me won't be surprised to find out that one of my favorite demonstration was that of chocolate making.  They had a display of cocoa fruit to chocolate nib grounds preparations and provided tastings of hot chocolate that were phenomenal.

The home furnishings and decorative items were well appointed and the guides (both dressed in period clothing or National Parks rangers) explained which pieces were original and which were reproductions.  They took deserved pride in the beautiful original silver centerpiece (see right) on the dining table that was used to reflect candle light during dinners.  One of the guides also explained that a treasured silver wine cooler (a reproduction is on the sideboard) was a gift from George Washington after the scandal of Hamilton and his mistress broke in the news.  What I found most amazing was that through the 2 moves of the house, they were able to preserve the original moldings of the arched entry from the foyer (it is less "perfect" than the other ceiling moldings around the home but is seems the most true).

There isn't a huge display of original period furnishings and interiors (there are others that are better in the City like the Morris-Jumel Mansion, Gracie Mansion, and Teddy Roosevelt's birthplace), but in sum, the house is well-situated and worth a visit (besides, admission is free).  It is great to see the house finally restored and moved to its final location (there are 2 chambers on the main floor dedicated to explaining the move and restoration process), but if there is another historical/commemorative event there, I would highly recommend visiting during such an event.  My favorite was a demonstration of Revolutionary War military training that they had for children (see above left and below); it was evident to all that both the historian and the children were having a great time.