NY Historical Society: 77th St and Central Park West

Side Entrance with Statue of Frederick Douglass

Just a block or so south of the American Museum of Natural History is the New York Historical Society, with its own wonderful collection of paintings, home furnishings, memorabilia, and historical artifacts. It has been closed for renovation for the past year or so, but was re-opened last week.

I had never been there before today, and was pleasantly surprised by what I found.  I had mistakenly assumed this would have men's club style (like the Explorers Club), but it was wide open, bright, and exhibited amazing collections in traditional museum style, a kind of salon style, as well as a warehouse style (see Tiffany lamps displayed/stored at left).  To get more out of the visit, I downloaded the free audio guide from iTunes (which was helpful and enriching if a little cumbersome without an order or accompanying map), but if you are less technologically inclined there are free daily guided hour-long tours (check for times on level one at admission).

The museum has an extensive painting collection that rotates and has some great recognizable portraits of George Washington, Alexander Hamilton, miniatures on ivory of New York society women, and Hudson River scenes that highlight NYC's natural beauty.

There are also one-of-a-kind historical artifacts like George Washington's cot from the Revolutionary War (believed to have been the one he slept in at Valley Forge) and the ceramic jug which was a gift to Thomas Nast (whose cartoons in Harper's Weekly blasted and brought into public light the corruption of Tammany Hall) decorated with a depiction of snake-bodied William S. "Boss" Tweed (with beard and without glasses) and his corrupt political gang, some diving in headfirst into the "pot of money and power" (see right). 

There are also rare historic pieces like the fancy Engish-made Beekman family coach from 1766 (one of only 3 that survive from the period), the one-of-two ladies' dressing tables built in New York of this design in the Federal style after the American Revolution,  and the slavery chains (see the tragically child-sized shackles at left).

Perhaps because of my earlier visits to Hamilton Grange and the Morris-Jumel Mansion, I thought the highlight of all of the artifacts were the dueling pistols used by Aaron Burr and Alexander Hamilton (see right) when Alexander Hamilton was killed.

My favorite part of the museum was the 18 minute multimedia film that relates the story of New York City and its rise to prominence from what was once considered a far-away colonial outpost.  From the dredging of the Erie Canal through the American Revolution and the influx of immigrants and the political and economic upheavals centered around New York, the film weaves an amazingly coherent story.  Obviously it is a summary, but it relates history in a meaningful and elegant way without being overly dramatic (yes, they cover recent events like 9/11 poignantly but without belaboring the details; I understand the society is also collecting artifacts from "Occupy Wall Street" in case it becomes a historical phenomenon or movement).  I would recommend this film to all NYC residents and visitors--really, that is how good it is. 

If you haven't been to the New York Historical Society, run, don't walk, to spend an afternoon there.  ASIDE: If you have kids, set aside some time to visit the lower level children's history museum, which has lots of educational and interactive exhibits.

Hamilton Grange (Harlem): 141st Street and Hamilton Terr

It's been over 3 long years since The Grange, Alexander Hamilton's home that was named after his grandfather's homestead in Scotland, was moved to its current location in St. Nicholas Park (which was once part of Hamilton's farmlands) and restoration efforts began.  Today (Constitution Day) marks its re-opening to the public, and there was a great schedule of events from noon to 5pm (tomorrow, there are more special activities and speakers so if you can, check it out).

They allowed self-guided tours through the lower and main levels of the house (upstairs are going to be closed to the public as administrative offices).  The lower level was set up with a small gift shop and interactive displays.  The displays provided descriptions of Hamilton's lowly birth on the Caribbean island of Nevis, his abandonment by his father and death of his mother (all by the age of 14), his rise in early American politics, and his lasting accomplishments, including among other things, establishing the Bank of New York, being the first Secretary of the Treasury under George Washington (he's one of the few non-Presidents on our currency, being on the $10 bill), and creating the system of import customs. For the re-opening celebration, they had actors dressed as Alexander and Elizabeth Hamilton (see left) talking with visitors and answering questions about their lives and interests.

The special celebration today also included Caribbean music on a temporary main stage on the grounds, speakers from the 1st Rhode Island (period actors who played African American soldiers who fought during the American Revolution), period dressed musicians (see right) playing colonial era music, a period dressed blacksmith and apprentice doing iron work, and a hand weaver spinning yarn from wool (see below left).

Of course those who know me won't be surprised to find out that one of my favorite demonstration was that of chocolate making.  They had a display of cocoa fruit to chocolate nib grounds preparations and provided tastings of hot chocolate that were phenomenal.

The home furnishings and decorative items were well appointed and the guides (both dressed in period clothing or National Parks rangers) explained which pieces were original and which were reproductions.  They took deserved pride in the beautiful original silver centerpiece (see right) on the dining table that was used to reflect candle light during dinners.  One of the guides also explained that a treasured silver wine cooler (a reproduction is on the sideboard) was a gift from George Washington after the scandal of Hamilton and his mistress broke in the news.  What I found most amazing was that through the 2 moves of the house, they were able to preserve the original moldings of the arched entry from the foyer (it is less "perfect" than the other ceiling moldings around the home but is seems the most true).

There isn't a huge display of original period furnishings and interiors (there are others that are better in the City like the Morris-Jumel Mansion, Gracie Mansion, and Teddy Roosevelt's birthplace), but in sum, the house is well-situated and worth a visit (besides, admission is free).  It is great to see the house finally restored and moved to its final location (there are 2 chambers on the main floor dedicated to explaining the move and restoration process), but if there is another historical/commemorative event there, I would highly recommend visiting during such an event.  My favorite was a demonstration of Revolutionary War military training that they had for children (see above left and below); it was evident to all that both the historian and the children were having a great time.

Museum of American Finance: Wall St and Williams St

Alexander Hamilton at Final Duel

In my touring around various downtown sites like Trinity Church & St. Paul's Chapel, Federal Hall, and Fraunces Tavern, and the Museum of Jewish Heritage, I have passed by the Museum of American Finance, but I was too tired or for one reason or another failed to go in. 

Aaron Burr at Fateful Duel

I finally decided to make a trip to go to the Museum of American Finance (Museum of American Finance Info) and after the visit today I wondered why I had delayed to visit.  It is a perfect complement to a visit to the New York Federal Reserve and if you can coordinate a visit to both, it would make for a wonderful few hours spent learning about the American financial system and its history.

Inside there is an area that is dedicated to Alexander Hamilton (from his birth in Nevis, to his untimely death at a duel against political rival Aaron Burr--see photos above and left), who is credited for much of the foundations of the American banking system. 

There is a large timeline on the back wall that tracks the market since the credit crisis beginnings in 2007, and there is a small alcove about the history of U.S. currency, including regional notes, fractional currency during the Depression, and even a dollar that is labelled "HAWAII" so that if we lost the islands in WWII that currency could be identified and disavowed (see right).

There is a wall also noting all of the major financial scandals, starting from Hamilton's days during the early years of the nation, through more recent events like the Lehman Brothers demise (see left) and the ponzi scheme of Bernard Madoff.

Besides the explanations of the beginnings of the equities and bond markets, the mercantile commodities exchange, and the options market (which were very educational), there was a constantly changing sign that calculated our national debt.  When I was at the museum yesterday, July 13, 2011 around 1:49 pm EST, the debt tally was at $14,411,408,925,789 and about 4 seconds later, it had increased by $92,003!  Amazing and horrifying.  How are we ever going to service this debt and lower it?!

If you have an interest in money (yes, you know some of you do even if you are unwilling to admit to it at parties or in front of friends), this museum is a definite "must see."  It is educational, fascinating, and may raise your attention to the financial pickle this country is currently in.  If none of this interests you, you may appreciate its location in an old Bank of New York; it is beautiful and intentionally very grand inside.

Morris-Jumel Mansion (1 of 2): 162nd St and St. Nicholas Ave

The Morris-Jumel mansion was built in 1765 (the oldest remaining house in Manhattan), by British Colonel Roger Morris and his wealthy American wife, Mary Philipse (whom it is rumored captured George Washington's interest when he was 24), as their summer home.  Known originally as Mount Morris, this northern Manhattan estate stretched from the Harlem to the Hudson Rivers and covered more than 130 acres. Loyal to the British crown (Mary was one of only three women accused of treason to the revolutionary cause during the American Revolutionary War), the Morrises eventually returned to England after the American victory.

During the war, the mansion's location on the second highest point in what is now Manhattan provided indispensable views of the Harlem River, the Bronx, and Long Island Sound to the east, New York City and the harbor to the south, and the Hudson River and Jersey Palisades to the west, and proved to be a strategic military headquarters for George Washington (see photo at left for view of his recreated bedroom/office and notice the pillow and bundle on the floor that was for Washington's constant attendant and servant, William Lee) and then the British (and Hessian mercenaries).

President Washington and his family returned to the Mansion on July 10, 1790, and dined (in the room shown at right) with members of his new cabinet. Guests at the table included future Presidents John Adams and Thomas Jefferson as well as founding fathers Alexander Hamilton (later killed by another resident of the mansion--Aaron Burr) and Henry Knox. It was thought that President John Quincy Adams was also present at this dinner, but recent research has proven otherwise.

The next notable residents of the mansion was Stephen Jumel and his wife Eliza.  Eliza was quite a character, and the telling of her life brings a bit of the Harlequin romance or soap opera to the house.  It is known that she and her family were evicted from Providence, RI for running a house of ill-repute.  In other words, it is believed that she was a prostitute.  When they moved to NYC, Eliza strategically decided to become an actress (considered tawdry and low class work back then) so that she would be thrown in the path of rich men.  All worked in her favor when she met Stephen Jumel and convinced him to marry her  and make her "an honest woman" when he thought she was on her death bed.  "Miraculously" she made a full recovery and they married.  She tried to convince NYC society that she came from a noble French family and demanded to be called Madame Jumel, but NYC wasn't buying it.  Although they enjoyed her grand parties, few really befriended her.  Even her claimed bedroom set from Napoleon Bonaparte (perhaps purchased at auction although Eliza claimed they were gifts from Napoleon himself) did not really impress NYC high society (see photo at left of Eliza's bed which was thought to have been a gift from Napoleon to Josephine).

After Stephen's death, Eliza ran his business and was surprisingly success (quite a feat when women of the day had little in economic rights).  She was so successful that she attracted the attention of Aaron Burr, then former Vice President and well-known ladies man (but perhaps most famous for having killed Alexander Hamilton in a pistol duel).   

Aaron Burr had run up a great deal of gambling debt and decided at age 77 he could make all of his financial troubles disappear with this union (see Aaron Burr's bedroom in above right photo).  For her part, Eliza thought she would certainly rise in social status by marrying a former Vice President.  They were married in the front parlor of the house (pictured above) and had a reception in the beautiful octagonal room at the east end of the house (pictured at right).  

Unfortunately, it quickly became clear to Eliza that Mr. Burr was squandering her money so within a year she filed for divorce (scandalous at the time).  Amazingly, on the morning when the divorce was to become finalized, Mr. Burr had a freak accident and stepped on a pitch fork and died.  So rather than being a divorcee, for her later Grand Tour of Europe with her grandchildren when Eliza was 80 (see photo of painting at above left), she was introduced in the French court as the widow of the former Vice President. What an amazing survivor she was!  All toll, she lived in the mansion for 55 years, passing here after suffering in the end of dementia, at the age of 90.

For more information on the mansion, its history, architecture or residents, please visit Morris Jumel Mansion.  There are also educational workshops, children's programs and other interesting things that are also definitely worth a look.  I really enjoyed the historical fiction writing workshop I attended (and about which I will write next).

US Customs House: One Bowling Green

The Alexander Hamilton U.S. Customs House is now the Smithsonian National Museum of the American Indian.  I'll first describe the history of the U.S. Customs House and then the Native American exhibits.  You can find out more information about the U.S. Customs House at http://www.oldnycustomhouse.gov/ and information about the museum at http://www.nmai.si.edu/.  I enjoyed my visit to this site for both the history and features of the building as well as the learning and meaning one can get from the collection exhibited inside.

The building is a great example of Beaux Arts architecture, designed by Cass Gilbert, and completed in 1907.  The building is so grand that it has had numerous cameos in movies, including "Ghost Busters II," "Working Girl," "Batman Forever," and "Analyze This." 

The seven story building (only the first 2 are open to the public) is adorned with stately columns and four large sculptures by Daniel Chester French (better known for the Lincoln Memorial in Washington D.C.) representing America, Asia, Europe and Africa.  The sculptures reflect the then-accepted stereotypes of each continent: America and Europe are shown as active, intelligent, capable and ruled by law (see America, above left).  Asia is passive, withdrawn and exotic, while Africa (see above right), leaning on a weathered sphinx, is actually asleep!

The building's interior is beautiful, with its curved stairwells, marble inlays, elliptical rotunda with 140 ton skylight, and murals by Reginald Marsh (whose work can also be seen in the Whitney Museum, the MOMA, and the Post Office Administration Building in Washington D.C.), depicting the "life of a ship entering NYC" (these murals were done as a commission, but with all the work that went into the difficult project, it is said that Marsh was paid a mere $0.90/hour).  The central desks from the time when this building functioned as a customs house remain, and there are numerous placards describing the history and restoration of the building that line the desks--definitely take the time to read these if you can.

The National Museum of the American Indian is very kid-friendly.  There are classes, story-telling, interactive displays (see right), and more (check out their website for events).  I was taken by the wonderful story of the raven who stole the stars, moon, and sun and the stunning glass work by the artist Preston Singletary currently exhibited through September 5, 2011. 

Also, the current exhibit featuring the Horse Nation is incredibly educational while being beautiful.  I learned that in the 1800s native trade routes were established and rates for horses (who were considered to be essential for life and like family pets--like dogs) were steep; for example, a race horse was worth 10 guns and a riding horse could be worth a gun and 100 rounds of ammunition.  The Apsaalooke (Crow) Nation from the Northern Plains of Montana (who rode in the inaugural parade for President Barack Obama) dressed their horses and used highly decorated equestrian equipment as they might adorn themselves (see horse installation above with items circa 1880-1890).   

The detailed bead work of the Inuit parka (c. 1890-1925) from Chesterfield Inlet in Canada (see right) and the Ktunaxa gauntlets from British Columbia, Canada made in 1890 out of deer hide, silk thread and cotton cloth (see below) are made to be not only be used but admired.  There was so much in the normal collection on view that I cannot possibly do it justice here, so I encourage anyone with an interest in beautiful, detailed handiwork to make there way to this museum.  Like the best things in life, visiting this museum is free!

Lastly, I want to make a pitch for the gift shop.  They have a good selection of Native American made jewelry and pottery that is both ethnic and modern.  I particularly liked the Acoma pottery--really beautiful and not too expensive given the quality and authenticity.

Federal Hall: Wall Street & Nassau Street

Federal Hall Entrance with Statue of George Washington

Located just across the street from the New York Stock Exchange, Federal Hall is a historic site that should not be missed by history buffs.  While the original building was demolished and the building that currently stands there (built in 1842) is not filled with as many artifacts from the early years of this nation's history as one would hope, the free 30 minute tour is definitely worth a look (tours are offered on the hour by national park rangers; see http://www.nps.gov/feha/planyourvisit/hours.htm for details on times).  The grand Greek revival architecture of the building was intentionally designed to suggest the great power of the new nation, with its Greek columns from single slabs of all domestic marble (excluding the capitals which are from Carrera Italy) (see left) and its 55' in diameter rotunda (see right).  The wrought iron balcony and the well-worn marble floors are also quite luxurious.

This was the site where (1) George Washington was inaugurated as the first President of the United States (see photo of original wrought iron balcony where George Washington took his oath at left and photo of George Washington's shoe buckle at right -- unfortunately the original bible on which he took is oath is currently out on loan), (2) where the Bill of Rights was drafted (originally 12, 10 were initially adopted), (3) where Congress passed the Judiciary Act that established the coexistence of state and federal courts and laws, and (4) later where the purchase of what later became the state of Alaska was executed. 

Between these historic moments, this was the site where over time: New York City Hall operated, the U.S. Customs House brought in moneys from trade to fund the operations of the young nation, and one of the U.S. Sub-Treasuries protected the wealth of the nation in gold and silver (vaults remain on the main level and the basement level, see right) -- gun turrets once lined the roof to protect the funds kept here!

There is also a room dedicated to the life story of Alexander Hamilton (first Secretary of Treasury of the United States), from birth to an unwed mother who died when he was 11, a father who abandoned them in the Caribbean island of Nevis when he was 10, to the death of his oldest son Philip in a duel defending his father's honor, and finally to the death of Alexander Hamilton himself in a duel with Aaron Burr, who was attempting to pull apart the nascent nation into independent states.  This small glimpse certainly made me more keen about the re-opening of the Hamilton Grange (Alexander Hamilton's home) later this summer at 414 W. 141st Street.  

As I mentioned above, there aren't a lot of artifacts here, but there is a lot of history to appreciate.  If you are in the area, I would recommend a visit in conjunction with any visit to St. Paul's Chapel and Trinity Church (both of which are just a few blocks away, please see my prior blog post on both sites).

Trinity Church & St. Paul's Chapel: On Broadway btwn Wall St and Fulton

Trinity Church and St. Paul's Chapel (see left and right) make up Trinity Wall Street Episcopal parish.  Both churches are filled with and surrounded by history from the beginning of this nation through the tragedy of 9/11, and is an active parish today.

Trinity Church, which first opened in 1698 but burned in the "Great Fire" of 1776, was rebuilt in 1790 but had to be torn down due to heavy snow damage in 1839, and finally was rebuilt in 1846 for a third time to what you see today.  St. Paul's Chapel was first built in 1766 as a northern expansion of Trinity Church and is the longest continually used public building in the U.S. 

Trinity Church has beautiful bronze doors (see above left and right).  While the church is not the largest or the grandest in New York (see my posts on St. Patrick's Cathedral and St. John the Divine), it also has a spectacular stained glass window behind the main altar (see left) and a perfectly appointed altar in the All Saints' Chapel (see right).  It also has a museum, but when I visited yesterday it was out of commission due to some technical difficulties, but the security guard I spoke to said that is should be back up and running in a couple of weeks so check the website (http://www.trinitywallstreet.org) for details.  

However, some of the most historically significant parts of Trinity Church are actually outside in the cemetery.  In the south yard, there is a memorial for Robert Fulton (developer of the first commercially successful steamboat), the tomb of Alexander Hamilton (the first Secretary of Treasury and the man on the $10 bill) (see left), and in the north yard there lies the oldest gravestone (5 year old Richard Churcher) dated 1681 (see above right).

St. Paul's Chapel is just a few blocks north of Trinity Church, but many New Yorkers do not know much about St. Paul's.  It was the site where for the 9 months following 9/11 rescue workers took refuge, volunteers came from all over the country and the world to help relieve the devastation, and where people of all faiths bonded and helped one another after the devastation.  The interior of the chapel has been changed into a kind of museum with modern displays describing all of these things (which kind of diminishes the beauty of this historical site), but if you take the time to read and really look at the various displays, I assure you that you will be moved.  I certainly was.  The chapel also retains some incredible historical pieces as well -- George Washington came to worship after his inauguration as the first President and over that pew hangs an original 18th century painting of the Great Seal of the United States (see right); and George Clinton, the first NY State governor worshiped here back in the late 1770s and there is also a marked Governor's Pew.

Finally, if you go through the back doors, you will be face to face with the "Bell of Hope," a gift from the City of London to the City of New York, that is rung every September 11th.  And poignantly just beyond the bell, you will be facing west toward the "pit" where the twin towers once stood, and you can oversee the construction that is going on today at a feverish 24/7 pace.

While you could try to time your visit for the Trinity free tour at 2 pm or when the museum re-opens, I would simply recommend that you pick up the handy brochures offered at the front entrance of both Trinity and St. Paul's.  They are very informative, have detailed maps of highlights and provide a good overview of the history of both sites.