St. Paul's Church (Bronx): S. Columbus Ave

I didn't really know what to expect other than an old church and surrounding graveyard, but with the weather as pleasant as it was yesterday, I figured that it would be a good day to take the #5 subway to the end of the line and embark on the 15 minute walk to St. Paul's Church.  I was the only visitor there during my 2 hour visit, but the 2 lady docents were as accommodating and helpful as could be.  I believe they have school programs and special organ performances (the organ in the church is one of the oldest still functioning in the country -- see left) from time to time, but individual visitors like me seem unfortunately scarce.

The church has a quaint, very modest design, with high-walled pews (see right) owned by individual families (closeness to the altar meant higher costs; and it was noted that the Roosevelt family pew was in the far back corner with an intruding post--those Dutch were known even then for their frugality).  Most of the original windows were also in place, although there was one stained glass window by the famous John LaFarge from the Romanesque period of the church (see below left). 

The most interesting part of the church tour was the special walk behind the organ up the wooden steps of the tower to the belfry.  It was a narrow entrance (larger folks won't be getting by), followed by a steep climb in the dark, but it was well worth the spectacular breezy views from the top and the chance to ring the famous 250 year old bell (which I did!). 

In 1758, the Church of England minister at St. Paul’, Reverend Standard (who is buried behind the church) gifted it to his parish upon his retirement.  The bell (see right) was made at the same London Whitechapel Foundry as the "Liberty Bell," and thankfully it was saved from being melted down for ammunition during the American Revolution because a parishioner hid it in his barn as the battling approached Eastchester.

After the tour, I took 10-15 minutes to look through the museum, which was the old carriage house for the church.  Presently, they have an exhibit of various Revolutionary battles fought in the area.  The dioramas are very detailed and the uniforms and artillery take one back to how brutal and difficult the battles must have been (perhaps they were more vivid for me than most, as I had recently seen the documentary "Gettysburg"). 

They also show a short video of the history of the church, from the first 10 local farming families who built this church (and the prior one that was torn down for firewood during the Revolutionary War, when the Hessians used the church as a military hospital (see rudimentary "medical" tools at left)), and later when the church became a gathering place for residents from far and wide and services lasted all day (with a break for a picnic lunch in the family cemetary plots -- see cordoned off areas, below right).

There is also an exhibit about Ann Hutchinson (after whom the river is named), who moved down to this area after she was banished from Boston for her religious beliefs, only to be killed by Native Americans who believed she and her family were taking their lands.  Parts of the Ann Hutchinson story were familiar to me, but one that I had at least temporarily forgotten was how Ann's 10-year-old daughter, Susanna, was taken by the Native Americans and raised for 4 years before being forcibly returned to white society.

I ended the visit with a walk through the cemetery (see left).  They provided me with a hand drawn map of notable plots and headstones that made the walk interesting.  I was surprised to see a freed slave buried in the same cemetery as the white residents, as well as a marker for the Hessians who were buried in a mass grave here.  I am not easily spooked (besides it was a gorgeous day), but some might find that the old and sporadically overgrown parts of the cemetery are a little creepy.

In any event, I would highly recommend a visit to this historic place.  It is a hidden historical treasure that deserves support.

The Cloisters: Fort Tryon Park by Broadway and 190th Street

The Cloisters is a part of The Metropolitan Museum of Art but is located way way up on the upper west side (can you call this area the upper west side or is this the Bronx?).  It was one of the first contextual museums in the United States.  It is dedicated to the art and architecture of medieval Europe (500 to 1500 AD), covering both the earlier Romanesque period and the Gothic era.  It was never a monastery or a convent; it was originally built over 3 years and opened to the public in 1938 as a museum funded by John D. Rockefeller, Jr.

George Grey Barnard started collecting medieval art and architectural remnants (abandoned in the aftermath of the French Revolution) while he was living in France (trying to make a living when his commission for sculptures for the U.S. Capitol in 1902 was whittled back -- fall out of government corruption). After his return to the U.S. and after some financial hardships, he was forced to sell his collection at auction.  Rockefeller purchased the collection and later donated it to the Met.

The collection at the Cloisters is predominately religious in nature (not art that ranks high on my list of interests), and there are the beautiful, but predictable stained glass windows, religious paintings, religious sculptures, and religious objects (see detailed carving with over 90 figures in ivory cross at left), vessels and vestments.  Their collection also includes tapestries (you have to see the unicorn series in person to really appreciate their detail, beauty and symbolism) and sepulchers (see tomb effigy of boy (probably the Count of Urgell of Spain) at below right).


There was one tomb that we talked about in detail during the hour long guided tour of a knight -- definitely go on the tour (Tues-Sun at 3 pm, but check www.metmuseum.org for latest info on tours and lectures--by the way, notwithstanding what the website says, there are no shuttles between The Cloisters and The Metropolitan Museum of Art) if you want an interesting, interactive inside look.

However, what really makes this museum worth a good long visit (and their $20 for adults, $15 for seniors recommended donation--I didn't spring for the $7 audio tour and did not feel anything lacking given the free guided tour I took) are the cloisters, gardens and architectural mix of medieval and modern (see mid 12th century apse from the church of San Martin at Fuentiduena (Segovia) at left).  They have taken great care to combine real antiquities from all over Europe within a modern building in an integrated and almost seamless way. It's remarkable how they tied in the glass from one castle to the chapel of another married with the ceiling of another with doors (please take the time to notice the doors; you could walk right by them if you don't pay attention and their collection of medieval doors is worthy of a tour on their own) from yet another and make it look like it all belongs together.

For me, the highlight of the museum were the four cloisters.  The architecture that enabled monks to get from one part of a religious compound to another with protection from the weather form restful, garden-filled areas surrounded by arches of unique columns and capitals.  They are all beautiful, and when the garden tours start in May, I am sure the cloisters will be even more so.  I've included my version of artistic photos of each of the four cloisters below.  Enjoy!

St. Guilhelm Cloister which is fully enclosed by an atrium roof

Trie Cloister by which you can enjoy light dining from Cafe Trie

Bonnefort Cloister from the edge of which you can see scenic views of the Hudson River

Cuxa Cloister, which they have determined was double in size originally

Pontant Chapter House where monks would gather to conduct business at NW corner of Cuxa Cloister