Central Synagogue: Lexington and 55th Street

The Moorish Revival style structure of Central Synagogue in midtown has always been of interest to me, as it is so different from everything else around it and not the typical Gothic style cathedral (see my post about St. Patrick's Cathedral and my posts later this week about Trinity Church and St. John the Divine) that is so prevalent throughout NYC.  It's red sandstone exterior and green copper-sheathed wood spheres at the top of the two towers (references to King Solomon's Temple) are quite eye-catching (see left).

The synagogue offers free docent-led tours every Wednesday at 12:45 pm (http://www.centralsynagogue.org/index.php/worship/tours/).  Central Synagogue, formed from the merger in 1898 of Shar HaShomayim (meaning Gate of Heaven), founded in 1839 by German Jews, and Ahawath Chesed (meaning Love of Mercy), founded in 1846 by Bohemian Jews.  Its name was changed to Central Synagogue in 1920 symbolizing not only its location, but also its change to Reform Judaism.  Today, Central Synagogue is the center of Reform Judaism in the U.S. and has over 7,000 members.

The docent was a welcoming older lady who obviously really loved the synagogue and work and devotion that takes place there.  She told us about the history of the building, first designed and constructed by Henry Fernbach (one of America's first Jewish architects) in 1872 (taking 2 years to build), but which suffered 2 fires (one in 1992 and the second in 1998).  Reconstruction according to the original plans took 3 years, and while some things are new, there are several notable original pieces like the solid wooden front doors, most of the English floor tiles, and the ark at the bimah (altar).  All the stained glass visible from the sanctuary are beautiful (see the rose window flanked by the organ pipes, above right), but newer, and the only 2 original stained glass windows are on the north side of the building and visible only from the exterior.

I am not religious, but when the docent invited us up to the bimah (see right) opened the ark to reveal the background tapestry by Laurie Gross and the various Torah scrolls with their covers and told us about how one of the covers was saved from the holocaust (see left, the one with the star of David), I had an emotional reaction.  She also told us about how the restoration after the second fire revealed 3 stained glass skylights directly above the bimah that had previously been painted over.

The docent next took us up to the organ and allowed us to sit in the balcony.  This gave us a closer perspective to the stained glass windows, the magnificent organ and the stunning Moorish arches (see below) that frame the upper pews, which unlike in orthodox synagogues are not delegated to women (men and women always sat together, which was a daring innovation when the synagogue was first built). 

Finally the tour ended with a visit below the sanctuary to the reception room, the atrium and the fully functioning modern kitchen (before the kitchen was built after the second fire, congregants used a few hotplates to serve up to 350 homeless people breakfast twice a week).  This off the beaten track historical site is definitely worth a visit, doubly so if you can catch the guided tour.

St. Patrick's Cathedral: 51st Street and 5th Avenue

St. Patrick's Cathedral offers by appointment only tours for 10 or more but not for individuals (probably too many would be interested and be too infringing on the practicing Catholics worshiping in the cathedral?) (to schedule a group tour, contact Roberta Shea at 212-355-2749 x409 or RSheaspc@aol.com).

When in 1850 New York became an archdiocese and Bishop John Hughes became an archbishop, he decided that a larger northern cathedral was needed to properly represent the increasing numbers, intelligence and wealth of the Catholic population in New York.  At the time, most people thought his ambitions were a "follly," as the area where the cathedral was planned was mostly wilderness, but Archbishop Hughes' prescience correctly predicted that one day this location would be in the heart of the City.  Renowned architect James Renwick was commissioned in 1853, the first stone was laid in 1858, and the cathedral was consecrated in 1911 (when it was estimated that to that point about $4 million had been spent).  The gothic style cathedral is clad in white marble but the City pollution makes it much darker (see photos above).

Northern Aisle

Northeast Crossing of Axis and Transept

This is the largest gothic style Catholic cathedral in the U.S. and although tourists abound, there is a quiet calm about the place.  Like most traditional cathedrals, the structure of St. Patricks Cathedral is in the shape of a cross, with a central east-west nave (see below left), side aisles (see above left), and a crossing transept forming the "arms" of the cross (see above right).

Central Nave

Front Door of Central Portal

The architecture and the stained glass windows (esp. the rose window on the west side) are absolutely spectacular, and even though I am not religious, the architectural detail and overall grandeur (and perhaps all the praying Catholics) instill a sense of awe.

While I would have preferred a guided tour that I am sure would have enriched this visit even more, I was glad that I took the time to really look at all the alters (each dedicated to one or more saints), The Lady Chapel (which was light and beautiful), and the amazing 20,000 lb. bronze west facing front doors (see above right).

Yes, there are a lot of Gothic style churches are plentiful in NYC, but really, this is a special place that is worth a visit.