Tenement Museum: Orchard and Delancey Streets

The word "tenement" brings to mind dirty and dark over-crowded spaces, perhaps lacking indoor plumbing, and impoverished immigrants.  The tours at the Tenement Museum in the lower east side do not white-wash the realities from 97 Orchard Street, which was built as a tenement apartment for 20 families in 1863 and operated through 1935.  Rather, they provide a fuller picture of what it must have been like to live there throughout the years.

I took the "Getting By" tour (one of several available--check out the various tour descriptions and times at Tenement Museum) and learned about 2 tenant families living in the house after the crash of 1873 and the after WWII and during the Great Depression. 

It was truly humbling to see an apartment re-created to the early years of the building.  Visiting the restored homes of the German-Jewish Gumpertz family, we heard about the patriarch abandoning the mother and 4 children during the Panic of 1873.  Through public documents, the museum researchers were able to find out that after the father disappeared the youngest child died before reaching his second birthday.  However, the story was ultimately one of triumph.  The mother/homemaker was able to secure a loan, start a sewing business and raise her three other children to maturity.  An interesting addition to the story is that about a year and a half ago, a visitor to the museum who is a historian/genealogist was able to identify that the Gumpertz father had moved to the mid-west and died there in his 70s.

The second apartment on the tour was one that was the home of the Italian-Catholic Baldizzi family, who lived through the Great Depression. What was so special about this part of the tour was that the the museum was able to contact the daughter who grew up in the apartment (recently deceased but who had been living in Brooklyn, NY) and have her record her memories of living in this apartment.  You really can get a sense of what it was like for this family four to live in the 3-room apartment with shared toilets down the hall (at least an improvement from the 4 outhouses that the Gumpertz family used -- see left).  Also quite heartening was the clear expression of the Gumpertz's American pride.  Remember in WWII the US joined the Allied Forces so the Gumpertz family had to decide whether to support America or Italy--they adamantly chose their adopted home, the US.  You can see a faded embroidered pillow of the American flag in the main living room and the prominent picture of FDR in the corner.

After the tour, I was tempted to go on another tour, but time was running short so instead I watched some of the 30 minute informative film made by the History Channel at the visitor center (very unassuming and easy to miss -- see right; they are building a new larger one currently across the street) and then headed home.  What a great afternoon "re-living" history.

Morris-Jumel Mansion (2 of 2): 162nd St & St. Nicholas Ave

Sylan Terrace, Historic Carriage Houses North of Morris-Jumel Mansion,
Recent Set of HBO's Mob Series, "Boardwalk Empire"

The independent corporation that manages the Morris-Jumel Mansion not only brings history to life by taking care of this historical mansion, but they provide educational tours, student programs, book discussions, theater performances, and writing workshops.  I think they strive to inspire and support visitors' imaginations and minds.

I attended a historical fiction writing workshop just to try something new.  The instructors from Uptown Writers were very encouraging, talked about aspects important to writing historical fiction (like extensive research), and had all the participants take a shot at using something from the mansion to inspire a short writing.  I must say that these creative mental muscles were sorely atrophied in me, but with a little excitement and trepidation, I tried my hand at the 20 minute exercise.

I picked a special piece of furniture in Eliza Chase's (Eliza Jumel never had children of her own but adopted her sister's daughter and son as her own) bedroom.  This metamorphic desk/chair (see right) was patented by Stephen Hedges in 1854 and could be opened, top flipped open in half (as shown) forming a seat inside the table on wheels, or it could be closed and the top flipped closed to be a more traditional side table.

Here's an excerpt of what I wrote to hopefully help you get inspired to try something new:

William was locked in.  There was no other way to get him to concentrate on his lessons so it was just as well.  Aunt Eliza dropped him into the metamorphic desk-chair and hooked the contraption closed.  There were no comforting cushions, but then again it wasn't made for comfort.  He felt the hard edge of the seat dig into the backs of his thighs as he shuffled himself and the whole desk-chair unit toward a window.  Perhaps he could catch a glimpse of Milton's boy in the garden.  If only he could finish his letters.  Then Aunt Eliza would let him out, flip down the top and shut the desk closed.  She would pat his shoulder and tell him he was a good boy for working so hard and that as a reward he could go outside and play.  Then he'd be free....

Morris-Jumel Mansion (1 of 2): 162nd St and St. Nicholas Ave

The Morris-Jumel mansion was built in 1765 (the oldest remaining house in Manhattan), by British Colonel Roger Morris and his wealthy American wife, Mary Philipse (whom it is rumored captured George Washington's interest when he was 24), as their summer home.  Known originally as Mount Morris, this northern Manhattan estate stretched from the Harlem to the Hudson Rivers and covered more than 130 acres. Loyal to the British crown (Mary was one of only three women accused of treason to the revolutionary cause during the American Revolutionary War), the Morrises eventually returned to England after the American victory.

During the war, the mansion's location on the second highest point in what is now Manhattan provided indispensable views of the Harlem River, the Bronx, and Long Island Sound to the east, New York City and the harbor to the south, and the Hudson River and Jersey Palisades to the west, and proved to be a strategic military headquarters for George Washington (see photo at left for view of his recreated bedroom/office and notice the pillow and bundle on the floor that was for Washington's constant attendant and servant, William Lee) and then the British (and Hessian mercenaries).

President Washington and his family returned to the Mansion on July 10, 1790, and dined (in the room shown at right) with members of his new cabinet. Guests at the table included future Presidents John Adams and Thomas Jefferson as well as founding fathers Alexander Hamilton (later killed by another resident of the mansion--Aaron Burr) and Henry Knox. It was thought that President John Quincy Adams was also present at this dinner, but recent research has proven otherwise.

The next notable residents of the mansion was Stephen Jumel and his wife Eliza.  Eliza was quite a character, and the telling of her life brings a bit of the Harlequin romance or soap opera to the house.  It is known that she and her family were evicted from Providence, RI for running a house of ill-repute.  In other words, it is believed that she was a prostitute.  When they moved to NYC, Eliza strategically decided to become an actress (considered tawdry and low class work back then) so that she would be thrown in the path of rich men.  All worked in her favor when she met Stephen Jumel and convinced him to marry her  and make her "an honest woman" when he thought she was on her death bed.  "Miraculously" she made a full recovery and they married.  She tried to convince NYC society that she came from a noble French family and demanded to be called Madame Jumel, but NYC wasn't buying it.  Although they enjoyed her grand parties, few really befriended her.  Even her claimed bedroom set from Napoleon Bonaparte (perhaps purchased at auction although Eliza claimed they were gifts from Napoleon himself) did not really impress NYC high society (see photo at left of Eliza's bed which was thought to have been a gift from Napoleon to Josephine).

After Stephen's death, Eliza ran his business and was surprisingly success (quite a feat when women of the day had little in economic rights).  She was so successful that she attracted the attention of Aaron Burr, then former Vice President and well-known ladies man (but perhaps most famous for having killed Alexander Hamilton in a pistol duel).   

Aaron Burr had run up a great deal of gambling debt and decided at age 77 he could make all of his financial troubles disappear with this union (see Aaron Burr's bedroom in above right photo).  For her part, Eliza thought she would certainly rise in social status by marrying a former Vice President.  They were married in the front parlor of the house (pictured above) and had a reception in the beautiful octagonal room at the east end of the house (pictured at right).  

Unfortunately, it quickly became clear to Eliza that Mr. Burr was squandering her money so within a year she filed for divorce (scandalous at the time).  Amazingly, on the morning when the divorce was to become finalized, Mr. Burr had a freak accident and stepped on a pitch fork and died.  So rather than being a divorcee, for her later Grand Tour of Europe with her grandchildren when Eliza was 80 (see photo of painting at above left), she was introduced in the French court as the widow of the former Vice President. What an amazing survivor she was!  All toll, she lived in the mansion for 55 years, passing here after suffering in the end of dementia, at the age of 90.

For more information on the mansion, its history, architecture or residents, please visit Morris Jumel Mansion.  There are also educational workshops, children's programs and other interesting things that are also definitely worth a look.  I really enjoyed the historical fiction writing workshop I attended (and about which I will write next).

Fashion Institute of Technology Museum: 7th Ave & 27th St

If you happen to be in the neighborhood (close to flower market, Martha Stewart studios, and the fashion district), you might take 30 minutes to stop by the Fashion Institute of Technology Museum (FIT Museum) and check out their free exhibits on fashion (see FIT Museum Info for hours).  It is not a large museum (4 small connected rooms) and they don't allow photography (for conservation reasons), but it shows a nice retrospective of fashion through the ages.

Currently, their exhibit, called "His and Hers," tracks men's and women's clothing starting from the 1750s through to the present.  In the 1750s, both men and women (at least in the courts) were ornately dressed (men wore high heels too).  Then in the 1800s women remained decked out like dolls but the menswear went to more serious dark suits.  In the early 1900s, Edwardian women wore large hats and tightened their corsets to "unbreathable" ridiculousness.

Then the next notable fashions went to the 1920s with dresses made for flat-chested skinny women.  There was also the zoot suit of the 30s and 40s, but these were seen as "unpatriotic" during the war with their extra-ordinarily lavish use of fabric (wide shoulders, cuffed wide, high-waisted pants, etc.). Post war 1950s' very feminine ladies dresses with aprons and neck-kerchiefs was a reaction to bring women back into the home after working for the war effort.  Then came the Nehru jackets of the 60s (the museum has a Mr. Fish suit on display)--remember Mick Jagger wearing these?  The era of the mini-skirt is represented by a scandalous (yet restrained for her in all black) Betsy Johnson  backless dress and a "Tuxedo" dress by Roberta Di Camerino (2001-2002 Anna Sui copied these in her tompe l'oeil dresses and accessories--here I had thought Anna Sui was coming up with a new design!). Concurrently designers like YSL were advocating for womens' pants suits. 

Then there are numerous modern/current fashions (lots of Jean Paul Gaultier -- see laser-cut vinyl dress at above right).  Most on display seem to make men's clothes more feminine (with men's over skirts) and women's clothes more masculine (with broad shoulders and military inspired boots and jackets).  Whatever your tastes, you're bound to see something you like and something you think is new or different--but basically it seems to me all fashion is derivative from prior fashions.  Nothing wrong with that, just don't be fooled.

Maybe it's because of my affinity for movies and television, but while I was touring the museum I kept hearkening back to particular programs that for some reason stuck in my mind for their fashions.  Of course there was "Gone with the Wind" and Scarlett's plea to Mammy to tighten her corset until it reached 16", Julie Andrews staring in "Thoroughly Modern Millie" for the flapper dresses, and "Happy Days" and "American Graffiti" for the 1950s. I was pleasantly surprised that I must not have been alone in making the association, as the museum had on exhibit an outfit worn by Don Johnson in "Miami Vice" (see left).  Ha!  Great (or sick) minds...?

Grant's Tomb: 122nd St and Riverside Drive

Yesterday (April 27th) was the annual celebration of President Ulysses S. Grant's birth at the General Grant Memorial, better known as Grant's Tomb.  When I first read about the planned festivities on Grant's Tomb Site, I was really intrigued.  The National Parks Service (along with others) had planned a 21 gun salute, re-enactments, time period musicians (see left) and periodic firings of an antique cannon (see photos below).

The day was more than what I had hoped for in terms of all the activities.  The re-enactments with fully costumed Union soldiers, and even a "General Grant" (see right) was truly a sight to behold. 

I was a little disappointing in that they were not offering ranger guided tours.  I was, however, able to find a very amenable ranger who told me a great deal about the memorial.  He had been a ranger for only 9 months and perhaps it was this newness that made him so enthusiastic and friendly, but somehow I think they select for those characteristics when they staff the various national parks--at least that has been my experience (see my prior blog about Teddy Roosevelt's birthplace or Federal Hall, both staffed with rangers).

 In any case, my ranger provided insightful details about the 150' high memorial with 8,000 tons of granite started in 1892 (with the cornerstone laid by then-President Benjamin Harrison) and finished six years later and dedicated on April 27, 1897 (on the 75th anniversary of the birth of Grant).  He told me about the granite sarcophagus from Massachusetts (see left) and the carrera marble shipped in from Italy that lines the most of the interior of the monument. 

He also explained a little about the busts of the five Civil War generals lining the Ulysses S. Grant and wife Julia Dent Grant's sarcophogi) such as the bust of William Tecumseh Sherman (see right) and the amazing Allen Cox mosaics (you really have to see these in person to appreciate them so I haven't included those photos, but you can see them at Grant's Tomb photos if you can't make it to the memorial). 

Finally, he spent some time guiding me through the John Massey Rhind pendant carvings surrounding the monument dome (see left). He described each of the pendants, noting that in each pendant the goddess of liberty and the goddess of peace flank lifetime symbols of Grant.  Starting with the "Tree of Life" at the center of the SE pendant representing Grant's birth, the ranger pointed out the book held by one of the goddesses representing Grant's education and increasing knowledge throughout his life.  The next pendant in the NE has the goddesses holding a shield and a sword representing Grant's military career and West Point training.  In the NW pendant Grant's civilian and Presidential life is represented with a bundle of sticks (symbolizing the strength of the unified nation) and an abundant cornucopia and palms for peace.  And finally the SW pendant depicts Grant in death/asleep with poppy flowers, yet remembered for eternity as represented by the orb held by one of the goddesses. 

The national symbol of eagles also abounds at the memorial.  You can see the 13 eagles representing the 13 original colonies in the dome (just above the windows).  There are also 2 large eagles that "posted" at the front entrance of the memorial (see left).  It was interesting to hear that these eagles were not original to the memorial.  Rather, they were recycled from the old New York City post office when that building was being torn down.  If you look closely, you can see the color differences, but if this hadn't been pointed out to me, I don't think I would have known they were later additions.  Pretty eco-friendly, no?

Almost all of the above you can pretty much see any time, but what is special every April 27th are the re-enactments.  If you've never been to this special event, I'd put it in your calendar now for next year.  Of course, check out the website for updates, but this was fun and totally different from anything I've ever experienced.  The men dressed as Union soldiers fired the cannon throughout the day (see below).

The boom from the cannon was so loud that my ears were ringing for a good 10 minutes.  I loved it! 

P.S. By the way, I noticed that in the monument, among the numerous wreaths from various historical societies and veterans groups, there was a wreath that had a card that simply said, "The President." I doubt that President Obama had much to do with actually sending this, especially as he sought fit to stop of all traffic in mid-town during rush hour on the day, but I did think it was neat that at least someone at the Obama White House was remembering our 18th President (credited with winning the Civil War and ending slavery) on the anniversary of his birth.

Museum of Arts and Design: Columbus Circle

Bead Tapestry Made of Obama Campaign Poster Paper

This museum was once called the American Craft Museum but relocated and reopened as the Museum of Arts and Design (MAD) at Columbus Circle.  It's in a fantastic location, close to Central Park, the shopping at the Time Warner Center, and within a stones throw of Lincoln Center (see my prior post on Lincoln Center).  It is a great place to spend an hour discovering hand crafted contemporary and modern art from all around the world.  Admission is $15 for adults, and they have a pay-what-you-wish on Thursday evenings; check out their website MAD Info for current exhibitions, hours and admission.

I had been to this museum a couple of years ago when my husband and I saw what I thought was one of the best art exhibitions I'd ever seen (yes, my husband enjoyed it too).  I went back earlier this week to see their current exhibits, which included a lot of African and African-inspired art, ceramic jewelry, and American tapestries by Judy Chicago and Audrey Cowan.  Highlights for me include the Algernon Miller tapestry called "Change" made of beads made of rolled Obama campaign paper (see above), South African Heath Nash's modern and whimsical lighting made from plastic bottles (see right), and fanciful toile wall paper of African Americans (see below left) made by a Harlem artist, Sheila Bridges (I first saw this paper on the Nate Show's tour of Gayle King's kitchen).  They also have better known artists' work like Missoni and Keith Haring (one of his famous Apartheid lithographs).

The museum curates exhibits that go well with one another, with great lighting that makes viewing comfortable, and each floor's moderate footprint makes it possible to take in the art in manageable chunks.  It really is a lovely museum that one doesn't need to rush through.  Also, I would highly recommend reserving some time and energy for the gift shop.  They have jewelry, glass, fabric, and novelty items made by modern artists and artisans for sale--I couldn't help but buy a jewelry kit of hand made paper beads (a la Miller and the ladies of the Kwetu Afrika Womens Association Angels who made the recycled beads).  Hey, how can you beat $18 for modern art? 

My favorite piece in the gift store?  Well, you can't get more dramatic, delicate, and fanciful than Dutch-born, London based Tord Boontje's "Blossom" chandelier of Swarovski crystal (see right).  One day I'd love to have a house where something like this would work--in the meantime, I'll keep trudging through NYC.... 

Celebrity Apprentice Event: 59th St and Madison Ave

I'm not really a fan of Celebrity Apprentice, but as a member of the Academy of Arts and Sciences (you know, the group of anonymous folks who vote for the Emmy Awards), I thought I would attend one of the few events hosted in NYC (versus North Hollywood, CA), especially as it was so close at Florence Gould Hall. 

Cocktails and passed hor dourves (ending with sorbet in cute mini sugar cones) during the press interviews and photo shoots were great.  I think if I were a fan of the celebrities, it could have been exciting.  At least I recognized them without having to read their name cards later in the auditorium....

I thought Marlee Matlin looked as fabulous in person as she does in films and on television (see above left) --erect and poised at all times.  Starr Jones  (see above right) tried to be glamorous but managed to come across as cagey; she kept alluding to her battles with Nene (I presume from Real Housewives of something or other) and that we should all tune in this weekend.  Meatloaf came across as a pudgy, emotionally mushy and an all around nice guy (see below right).  County singer John Rich (okay, I did need the name card to identify him) seemed to be a version of smart country--how unexpectedly refreshing! (see left). 

Then there was The Donald (terrible hair and all), little Don (overbite anyone?), and Jim Cramer (host of "Mad Money" and past helper on "Celebrity Apprentice," the panel moderator. None of them said anything noteworthy.  They blathered about the show's top ratings, asked Academy members to vote for them, talked about highlights (and low points) of the series, etcetera.  The one amusing/surprising thing was that Mr. Trump referenced his possible run for the Presidency and the crowd did not turn on him.  We'll see if the broader population is as friendly....