Ukrainian Museum: 6th St between 2nd and 3rd Aves

The Ukrainian Museum is a beautiful contemporary building in the lower east side that was completed in 2005.  Currently there are exhibits about Ukrainian weddings and the clothes, wreaths, breads, head wraps, and ritual cloths related to Ukrainian weddings; the art and writings of Sviatoslav Hordynsky; and, of course, the famous Pysanka eggs from all the regions of the Ukraine. 

The textiles are colorful and beautifully decorated with embroidery and ribbons.  However, more than just pretty to look at, they embody the Ukrainian belief in warding off evil with good luck symbols in the decorations and positive thoughts of the maker while she is embroidering or embellishing.  The traditions and details vary from region to region (see right and left), but they all include emblems intended to protect the wearers. 

There are displays related to the decoration and giving of handkerchiefs from single women to single men to signify interest and courting.  There are blessed elaborate wedding breads decorated with ribbons and twisted knot birds made out of dough (see below). 

Really, all of this exhibit is a feast for the eyes and shouldn't be missed, but unfortunately it seems it usually is.  The receptionist seemed shocked to see me and when I told her I had discovered the museum's existence online, she was so pleased and surprised she couldn't do enough to make me feel welcome.  As the only visitor to the 3 story museum at the time of my visit, I was a little saddened by the lack of visitors much the way I was about the Hispanic Society of America.

Upstairs there is an exhibit that displays the breadth and depth of Sviatoslav Hordynsky, a talented Ukrainian artist and writer.  There are numerous works in a variety of styles--from German Expressionism, to Picasso-like cubism, delicate gestural and detailed watercolors (see left), and religious studies that were later used in the most famous piece by Hordynsky, the mosaic murals in St. Sophia Cathedral in Rome (see right).  I had never heard of this artist before, but I can assure you that I will be on the lookout going forward.

Finally, the piece de resistance, is their small but beautifully displayed collection of Pysanka eggs (see below).  If you are not careful, you could miss the whole thing.  They are in a small side room just inside the front doors on the left before you get to the admissions desk.  The eggs decorated using a wax-resist process, vary from region to region of the Ukraine, but are all decorated with the traditional symbols like eternity (never ending connected lines), the sun (circles, broken crosses, or stars with up to 8 points), triangles, animals, and nature (leaves, flowers, or trees) to protect and bring good fortune to the recipient of these eggs. Although now just decorative, originally they were thought of as talisman. 

If you find yourself in the Lower East Side, stop by the Ukrainian Museum and you won't be disappointed.

Dahesh Museum of Art: CLOSED

It's interesting to me that NYC has 2 branches of the American Folk Art Museum (Folk Art Museum Main and Folk Art Museum Branch), filled with artwork by untrained artists, but it does not even have one museum dedicated to academically trained artists.

The Dahesh Museum of Art is the only institution in the United States devoted to collecting, exhibiting, and interpreting works by Europe's academically trained artists of the 19th and early 20th centuries, and it is closed.  Their gift shop is still open at 55 East 52nd Street (between Madison and Park) in the Atrium of Park Avenue Plaza and you can find store hours at Dahesh Museum Shop, but you can't admire what is supposed to be a beautiful collection of classical art there.

When I expressed interest in the museum at the shop, the salesperson gave me a pamphlet (see cover at left) that gave me a quick education about "academic art."  First established in Renaissance Italy, academies prescribed strict and rigorous guidelines for the production of works of art.  Organized training systems or academies in nearly every European country and then later in the U.S., Australia and Latin America set up a heirarchy for paintings by subject matter (e.g., religious and mythological ranking higher than landscapes and portraits) and raised art from a "craft."

The artists' handiwork should look effortless, without any visible brush strokes, to enhance the illusion of life-like exactness, the hallmark of academic art.  This smooth finish (also called "licked" finish or in French fini) contrasts with the contemporaneous artistic style of the now more popular and lauded 19th and 20th century Impressionists and Cubists.  After learning about the competitions to be chosen for years of academic training, so that an academic artist could show at salons at which they could hope to sell their art...well, wow.  I certainly have a new appreciation for academic artists (see the beautiful example of Adolph William Bouguereau's The Water Girl).  Their training sounds as strenuous and arduous as that of surgeons. 

The museum's collection was begun by writer and philosopher Salim Soussa Achi, aka Dr. Dahesh (1901-1984), who lived in Beiruit, Lebanon.  One day soon I hope the Dahesh Museum is able to find a suitable exhibition space and re-open to the public.  In this world of loose, free, and loud living (and with the immediate gratification of digital photos from every camera phone), perhaps academic art is out of style, but its discipline and beauty is also sorely lacking.

MoMA: 53rd Street btwn 5th and 6th Avenues

The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) is a "staple" of New York City culture.  If you are a fan of contemporary or modern art, this is your mecca.  The MoMA has a fantastic collection of modern art in a manageable space, a good cafeteria, and an upscale restaurant (The Modern; (212) 333-1220).  Admission fees are pretty steep (adults: $20; seniors: $16; and students: $12) so if you don't mind crowds--which is almost always the case anyway--you may want to visit on Target Free Friday Nights every Friday 4-8 pm.

Currently, there are some notable exhibits that may be of interest.  The "Abstract Expressionist New York" is on view through April 25, 2011; "Counter Space," an exhibit about modern kitchen design is up through May 2, 2011 (see right); and "Picasso Guitars 1912-1914" (see left) is available through June 6, 2011.

Perhaps because recently I have failed miserably at keeping my own air plants alive, I thought the displays of Paula Hayes' terrariums in the main MoMA lobby of "Slug" and "Egg" (see right) was both beautiful and fascinating.  I hope visitors take the time to reflect on this little bit of peace, which is a "meditation on the fertility" of the Leopard Slug, in the hustle and bustle of the lobby.

Other "gifts" of the MoMA are the educational events that they host.  There are often kid-friendly films (free), brown bag lunches on various artistic topics ($5), and even lecture and studio courses (a couple hundred dollars for a series).  Check out the variety of learning opportunities at http://www.moma.org/learn/index. 

Finally, I feel the need to discuss the MoMA bookstore and gift shop.  This is not your ordinary shopping experience.  The items for sale fit the MoMA ideals of good design and are well curated.  It is not to say that all of these items are unique to the MoMA Store, but rather, that they have gathered fabulous inventory for sale.  I have successfully purchased gifts for the most difficult to please here.  Items are novel, interesting, and reasonably priced.  They range from books, housewares, clothing, furniture, toys, jewelry, and, of course, the requisite post cards, posters, and t-shirts.  This is a great resource for gift giving.